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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Motor Mounts on Yanmar
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Thread: Motor Mounts on Yanmar Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-14-2010 07:26 PM
arf145
Quote:
Originally Posted by mitiempo View Post
But you replace the whole mount, not just the rubber.
Exactly. If we're talking about Yanmar mounts they are all of a piece. Cost something like $125 apiece, IIRC.
01-14-2010 04:22 PM
mitiempo But you replace the whole mount, not just the rubber.
01-14-2010 04:20 PM
DrB
Thanks all.

I am heading to the boat Saturday to "visit" as she slumbers away in the winter. I think my mounts are going since I think I see cracks in the rubber bushing. If that is the case, they need to be replaced. My Cutlass bearing also may need to be replaced, so if I do that, I am definitely going to replace the rubber on all for mounts, since the shaft will be off and will have to realigned anyway.

I'll know more on Saturday.

The mounts (metal) look fine, no corrosion whatsoever, but the mounts are circa 1994, when I think the boat was repowered from the A4.

DrB
01-12-2010 11:46 PM
arf145
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonRelyea View Post
yeah ... I've got a yanmar 3gm30 ... and a little thought about the post height would have supplied my own answer ...

I do have a drive saver too ... so ... I'll start a new post rather than hijack this one any further! Thanks ARF145
It's not a total hijack, so I'll throw one more note out there--to align with a drive saver, you just need to remove the saver and pull the shaft in a bit so you can align metal to metal. When the alignment is good, reconnect with the saver in place.

I embarked on that little journey of discovery last summer while having someone "just" do this for me because I was afraid to mess with the shaft while in the water--visions of water gushing in. Removing the saver revealed a shaft that protruded past the end of the coupler into the saver center, preventing mating them up. Had them saw that off on somewhat of a deadline for a trip, but that revealed that the coupling was warped and couldn't be aligned anyway. We put it back together and got a rough alignment that got us through the season. But I'm having shaft, coupling, and cutlass bearing replaced, and while we're at it, a nice PYI seal done this winter. $$ but hopefully
01-12-2010 08:17 PM
roline
flex couplers

All elastomers have cross linking agents to initiate the curing of the base elastomer. The elastomers due continue to cross link due to aging. Exposure to temperature accelerates the aging process. When motor mounts are old, they usually will have taken a set in the loaded position, and then aged, become firmer, with reduced flexability. In the case of engine seals, the elastomer can become brittle and crumble/ break, leak... As motor mounts age, the shaft alignment should be checked due to the sagging and taking a set. Flex couplings can be used to minimize vibration of misalignment, but should not be used in place of proper alignment. The usually do not like more than 6 to 8 degrees of angular misalignment. Examples of polymer / elastomeric couplers:
01-12-2010 07:02 PM
mitiempo Gary
It depends. Yanmar recommends every 2 or 3 years but I'd bet nobody does it that often. Yanmar mounts are quite soft. In my experience they harden with age as the rubber gets older. There are probable a lot of 20 year or older boats still with the original mounts.
01-12-2010 06:48 PM
Gary M I had my 2GM out this summer, would have been a great time to replace the mounts. How do you tell when they need to be replaced ? My engine seems to have a lot of movement, I assume that means the mounts have lost a lot of rigidity but is there a guideline on how much is too much?

Gary
01-12-2010 04:32 PM
mitiempo You can get close by adjusting the new mounts by moving the nuts to the same position as on the old mounts. But because the softness will be different between new and old mounts there will still be a difference, it will just be smaller. Mounts cannot be refurbished, only replaced and you're best to use the Yanmar mounts as opposed to aftermarket ones. Re-alignment isn't hard just fiddly to do and usually in a fairly tight space.
01-12-2010 02:49 PM
RonRelyea
well ... like I said .... stooooopid idea!

yeah ... I've got a yanmar 3gm30 ... and a little thought about the post height would have supplied my own answer ...

I do have a drive saver too ... so ... I'll start a new post rather than hijack this one any further! Thanks ARF145
01-12-2010 02:20 PM
arf145 Ron, I think you can only get close that way. The typical tolerance at the coupling is something like 0.006 inch. And even if you got them back in the exact same spot--and believe me, I tried this myself--you might find that time and deterioration has made the old spots less than perfect anyway.

If you've got a coupling directly to the engine outpu and no plastic drive saver doughnut inbetween, you mainly just need a small enough feeler gauge and some patience as you shove the engine around.

And if we're still talking Yanmar here, you definitely will need to disconnect the shaft, because the post on the mount is pretty high and the engine will need to be lifted up and over it. You don't want to be trying to do that while connected to the shaft.
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