|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|02-04-2010 06:40 PM|
|mitiempo||Any good plastics shop should sell it. In Victoria a store called Industrial Plastics and Paints sells it in 1/2" thickness 4' wide for about $7 a running foot. It is good insulation and quite flexible. I've insulated 2 fiberglass boats with it and a friend has his boat insulated with it as well and his insulation work is about 20 years old. For insulation I glue it to the hull with 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. I used it for bulkhead spacing because I had scraps available. I used a razor knife and cut slightly beveled strips and hot glued it to the hull where the bulkhead was going. Ethafoam is also available in thicknesses upto at least 2" that I've seen. McMaster Carr may have it as well.|
|02-04-2010 03:46 PM|
|nailbunnySPU||where do you find ethafoam? it gives some funky results in google|
|02-03-2010 04:32 PM|
I knew Morris did it properly but wasn't sure how. I first read of using foam about 30 years ago in Ferenc Mate's book "From A Bare Hull". On my own CS27 I installed 2 partial bulkheads flanking the stove and although it probably wasn't necessary I used 1/2" ethafoam which is close celled. I then filleted with thickened epoxy before tabbing. The foam was compressed a bit before after the bulkhead was in the proper position so less then 1/2" when finished. It is softer than the foam Tim Lackey normally uses.
|02-03-2010 04:02 PM|
Originally Posted by mitiempo View Post
The gap does not need to be big 3/32" - 1/8" is plenty for actual tabbed bulkheads. Screwed bulkheads...well I won't even go there.. My problem with some foams, like weatherstripping used by some, is that they can absorb resin and also just become another hard spot or extension of the bulkhead.
From what I have personally witnessed, and seen in use during construction, Morris uses dead air space, about 3/32" - 1/8" and the bulkheads are held by a jig while getting tabbed. Below is a Morris bulkhead for the anchor locker before the tabbing begins. You can see the gap all the way around. If the hull comes in contact with the plywood, then they did not tab it right.
It would be very tough to tell if a dead air gap or foam was used in the production after the fact and in a survey. Morris, in particular, gelcoats the entire inside after they tab in the bulkheads, not that you could ever see the gap through the tabbing to begin with. My CS-36T has air gaps, as I have had to dig into some of it..
Pretty tough to see that gap now..
|02-03-2010 02:44 PM|
|xact||anybody have a recomendation for the thickness of corecell to use on the transom?|
|02-01-2010 08:40 AM|
|sailingdog||Just remember to properly pot the holes the bolts for the rudder pintle/gudgeons use with thickened epoxy so that water can't get in to the core.|
|01-30-2010 08:06 AM|
guess I will have to hold on to the rudder pretty tight.
the transom is having the plywood removed and cored/glased with foam
the gudgeon straps are 1/8" strap bolted with backing plate.
I think the earlier tanzer's had more robust pintle/gudgeon setup then later models, I was told when they were refabricated last year.
Just had a survey but yes your right dont think Im taking it lightly.
New rudder is a lot lighter too.
|01-30-2010 06:45 AM|
The gudgeon straps are pretty thin stuff and bolted to a very thin transom. If you take a wave from the stern and the rudder is pushed over, the gudgeon straps may not hold up. If they do hold up and the rudder doesn't break theres a good chance it will get torn off that thin transom.
If the rigging is truly oversized it may be ok but I'd suggest you have a an experienced blue water cruiser or surveyor look her over before you get too far into this.
|01-30-2010 05:43 AM|
the rudder has 1/2 pintles, what will the waves do to it?
which rigging mountings do you mean?
I have been told the rigging was originaly oversized for this rig.
|01-29-2010 04:22 PM|
|mitiempo||I also don't think I would take a Tanzer across the Atlantic. I would think there would be too much reinforcing needed to make it worthwhile.|
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