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  Topic Review (Newest First)
01-31-2010 05:25 PM
MoonSailer Activated charcoal removes taste and organic contaminates. Ion Exchange resin type filters remove scale forming minerals. A 0.2 micron filter removes particles and most microbes.
01-31-2010 01:10 PM
jhack82 Thanks for all the replies
The tank has a filter right after it before it goes anywhere. Its a Culligan .2 micron or something, its the one that blocks everything, even chlorine. it know its an activated charcoal filter. its a PITA to change out, and I know I have to remove it before I flush the system. Otherwise I'll just flood the filter. Thanks a lot for all the help, I'm in Hampton roads and we have 4" of snow on the boat right now, so i am a bit more concerned with keeping warm( a baseboard heater and a forced air heater and very careful electrical management) hopefully I’ll be able to find enough hose to tackle this problem relatively soon. I do like drinking water without having to boil it.
One quick filter location, I figured putting it before everything in the system would work well to keep the entire lines free of contaminates, do you think its the new hoses that already had some contaminates on it that grew? or is there a place I should move the filter to or put another one?
Thanks for all your replies,
01-30-2010 04:54 PM
RXBOT Do what posters have advised and ad on a filter assembly in the fill line, better water in should eliminate some of the problem.
01-30-2010 02:38 PM
sailingdog I'd point out that having a filter in the water tank's vent line is a good way to prevent a lot of these problems, as many times, the air coming in the vent is the source of biological contaminants.
01-30-2010 09:56 AM
MoonSailer In theory water that has been ran through a water softener should be better as the WS removes calcium etc. The best type would be the ones that are recharged with acid instead of salt. Bacteria require certain minerals to survive and grow. I would not add vinegar as bacteria can eat the stuff when it is dilute. Reverse osmosis water is very good too.
01-30-2010 08:16 AM
tommays At work we would call it BIO-FILM and you got it going on to the point you may need to take some things apart and replace some hose to get it good again

I just happened to take some pictures this week when i changed some filters that are the first line of defense against "clean water" and it should show why you need to filter what goes in.

filters at 6 week change about 150,000 gallons

Now if you look at the water in a glass it looks and tests fine BUT there is always a lot of TDS "total dissolved solids" that bring a lot of stuff along to feed the bacteria
01-29-2010 11:10 PM
Waltthesalt Agree with all of the above. Also consider a putting in a filter at your sink fixture. It works for me and they don't cost much
01-29-2010 10:18 PM
sailingdog I'd point out that the brown stuff in water lines is generally biological, not scaling, which is usually calcium based salts and white or greyish in color.
01-29-2010 09:37 PM
GaryHLucas Chlorine and caustic (high pH) will remove organics (bacteria). Scaling is caused by salts that crystalize, and are removed by acids (low pH). Weak acids like citric or acetic (vinegar) will remove salts. Take the solids you get and put them in a glass with some vinegar. If they dissolve you have scaling if you don't it is probably biological fouling that chlorine and caustic, sodium hydroxide (lye) would remove.

Hope this helps
01-29-2010 07:25 PM
sailingdog Jhack82—

I would highly recommend you follow Peggie Hall's shock treating directions. You can find them HERE.
This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

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