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  Topic Review (Newest First)
03-06-2010 12:07 PM
CharlieCobra As far as the difficulty of restoring wooden boats is concerned. The actual bits of work done aren't all that hard. The hard part is peeling the onion to get at whatever needs replacing. Wooden boats are many thousands of little jobs done well. All of those little jobs relate or tie into one another. Oh Joy had a rotten clamp (main framing that the deck beams tie to as well as rib tops) that needed fixed. To get at it, the deck had to come off. The deck beams and house had to come off. The chainplate partner on that side as well as a bulkhead had to come out. All of this to replace an 8' section of bad wood. This is the main issue with a wood boat. While everything on it can be replaced, getting at it is another story all together...
03-06-2010 11:36 AM
blt2ski The only issue to a degree I see with some of the 70's boats, is if they have the IOR buldge. Then even tho reasonably fast, not exactly something I want to sail on. BUT< this also comes into gaha's point, "ANY BOAT" if you like the lines etc is worth restoring/refurbing etc. I've made my what classic plastic I would not restore, nor would I restore and old shoe double ender equal full keeler std transom in plastic either!

03-06-2010 10:40 AM
Originally Posted by davidpm View Post
What is you definition of slim vs fat. Some ratio number perhaps?
On this point alone, the easy-to-remember length/beam ratio for a cat boat used to be 3 to 1.
Then the rush to make sloops more livable at the dockside under the IRS "second home tax write-off" scheme led to increasingly porky designs where the deck was designed around the apartment-sized interior. By the late 80's the transition was in full swing.
Gotta be realistic... if I were building production boats, I would also have to go where the market is. It's a business, after all, and not a charity.

That's one reason that the good-sailing designs from the 70's will always be in demand for restoration by boaters wanting to actually sail.

So keep restoring and enjoying those "classic" fast Cals, Ericsons, Ranger yachts, and Catalina 27's.

03-06-2010 07:30 AM
gaha_1 Anyboat is worth it.If you like the lines and want to put the money into it.I might like something and you may think that I'am stupid for even thinking about it.
03-01-2010 08:48 PM
mitiempo Well, the Swede 55 is 53' overall with a 39' waterline and a beam of 9.58 feet. Quite narrow but many of its type are. I've always liked Steve Dashew's designs (Deerfoot and Sundeer derivatives), Sundeer 60 is 60' overall, 60' waterline and a beam of 13'9". The 56' Sundeer has the same beam with a waterline of 56'. I am really not fond of overhangs either. As beautiful as they are they don't give you any benefit over a boat without overhangs. Higher speeds with the finer entry that a narrow boat allows. It is hard to get real narrow on a smaller boat though as the accomodation suffers. The Swede 55 is a good example of this and it isn't very roomy for its length. The first smaller narrow boat that comes to mind is the Tumlaren, designed by Knud Reimers who also designed the Swede 55. It is 27'8" long with a beam of 6'3". Adlard Coles, British sailor and writer (author of Heavy Weather Sailing) raced a 32' Tumlaren design named Cohoe very successfully in the
A lot of more common boats from a few decades ago are quite narrow compared to todays racer/cruisers. The Alberg 35 has a beam of 9'8" and the Spencer 35, made famous by Hal Roth, is 9'6" beam.

For comparison the Catalina 30 has a beam of 10'10", the Catalina 36 a beam of 11'11" and the Hunter 37 Legend a beam of 12'5".

Here are pics of the Deerfoot 60 and the Tumlaren.
03-01-2010 06:46 PM
Originally Posted by mitiempo View Post
You're correct it is 55. There is a custom wooden version built by Brooklin called Vortex. Its construction was profiled in Woodenboat. Apparently the glass version shown came out heavier than the designer intended - Vortex is lighter. I think all my ideal boats are slim rather than fat as long as their length allows it.
What is you definition of slim vs fat. Some ratio number perhaps?
03-01-2010 06:45 PM
Originally Posted by smurphny View Post
Started restoring my Alberg 35 last spring, got her into sailable (not pretty:-)
Sounds like you got a lot done in a short amount of time.
Would you consider starting a new thread and posting some pictures and we always like to know how the numbers worked out.
Original cost, Major item costs, total costs, hours, subcontractors.

Folks like to use case studies for education.
a lot of people would be appreciative.
03-01-2010 04:07 PM
smurphny Started restoring my Alberg 35 last spring, got her into sailable (not pretty:-)condition and sailed all summer and fall 2009 around the Northeast. She has been worth every effort. For < $30,000 and a lot of work, I have a boat with all new equipment, including nav systems, radar, windvane steering, etc. ready to go anywhere. She is eminently stable and seaworthy, offshore capable, and classically beautiful. The glass layup from 1967 is bulletproof. These classic boats were made to sail rather than to please people interested in fancy galleys and heads. She is certainly not as fast as modern fin-keeled boats but (as she demonstrated this summer) is capable of sailing through 45 knot winds as modern boats turn tail. She will heave-to easily and ride out almost any blow, is very economical to run on power (Yanmar), and is comfortably single-handed. The main issue with an old boat like this is the inevitable core rot. I ripped up and replaced about 60% of the total deck area. It's a messy, smelly job, not for the faint of heart but certainly doable by almost anyone with time, a small circular saw, grinder, organic vapor mask, new balsa core (really the best option), and many gallons of West System (hint: buy it by the 5 gal. pail). You can reconstruct the decks stronger than the original sprayed fiber. Areas to really beef up are the bow where anchor handling occurs, the cockpit deck where the pedestal sits, under the mast step, and under any deck hardware. I also got rid of the leaky thru-deck chainplates which are a constant source of water penetration and attached new beefier plates outside the hull. If you like the working as much as the sailing, you can't go wrong with this venerable Alberg design.
02-11-2010 02:03 PM
cormeum One off S&S racing yawl

Ex "Inverness"

A good all around boat. That's the real reason to "restore" a boat- but a good history isn't bad either.
02-11-2010 12:46 PM
CharlieCobra I agree for a couple of reasons. A slimmer boat is more easily driven and the other is that in heavy weather, you can actually reach the handholds from both sides when moving about the cabin. It saves many a bump, bruise or break.
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