|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|01-24-2012 10:23 AM|
One thing I did to keep it simple: Eliminate the piping. I like the clean look without the piping. It also looks like it would make the sewing more difficult.
The Sailrite instructions have you make the pattern exactly as big as the foam. Then, when you put a 1/2 inch hem in, the cover will be slightly smaller than the foam, resulting in a wrinkle-free fit. I found that it was just a little too tight. Next time I think I would cut the pattern just a hair bigger than the foam.
I made a couple of throw pillows (of same fabric and thread) b/f I started on the cabin cushions. That functioned as a shake-down for my new (cheap) sewing machine. I had not done much sewing since junior high home econ class.
We went with a solid color b/c we think it looks better than pattern, but, it also makes mistakes less obvious.
There are some on-line fabric stores that sell roll-ends for less than normal price. They also sell small samples for $1 each. We found that some fabrics were stiffer than we would have guessed. It is also difficult to tell what the color and texture really is on the computer screen.
I bought my foam off of e-bay. The auctions usually specify exactly what density the foam is etc. I did a mock-up of all the shapes on graph paper in order to minimize the amount of waste for fabric and foam.
|01-23-2012 05:45 PM|
|captflood||GREETINGS EARTHLINGS Buy a zipper foot for yoursewing machine this is a neat pice of kit and enalbles you to do allsorts of fancy jobs Try to work on a clean floor or a large table and manage the weight on the machine neddle to stop it pullin the cotton from the point and use good quality threads nylon or similar GO SAFE!|
|01-23-2012 04:37 PM|
After years of sore backs from sleeping on every type of foam I could find, and some expensive mattresses, I threw out the foam, and replaced it with a couple of layers of thick carpet ,over a single layer of foam underlay. The pain disappeared in a couple of nights.
My fathers house has several beds, but I can only sleep on them two nights max ,before the back pain returns. So I sleep on the carpet, no problem. A friend with a bad back said the carpet on my bunks eliminates her back pain in a single night.
If nothing else works for you , try a couple of nights on the carpet. The hardness takes getting used to , but the back pain disappears quickly.
I've never sewn a berth cushion. I just staple the covering over the foam onto a plywood bottom.
I originally used fabric covers. Once the foam got wet, there was no drying it til spring, even in hours in the laundromat dryer. I switched to Naugahyde, and have never had wet bunks since. Spill something, and you simply wipe it off. Later, I switched to Sampson, a 3 ounce loose weave polyester, saturated with PVC; far tougher, cheaper and available in wider widths than Naugahyde. Don't like sleeping on plastic? Throw a blanket over it, or your original fabric covers. No problem. I've had none of the moisture and condensation problems people with fabric covers are always having trouble with. Solved the problem 40 years ago.
|01-23-2012 04:19 PM|
Thank you for the info. Any pictures of your interior would be appreciated along with the type of fabric you used and any hints on what I should be careful about. Also if you have any recommended fabric and foam distributors in the NY area would be helpful.
|01-23-2012 12:45 PM|
|Barquito||One advantage to using the same foam for all the cusions is that you can mass produce the boxing (the side of the cusion). I went with foam slightly thinner than yours (don't remember the density). It is OK, but think I should have gone thicker.|
|01-22-2012 09:49 PM|
Interior Cushions info
Your info is very helpful but it was exactly what you previously posted. I need answers to the questions that I sent to Sabreman. If you have them then please share them otherwise I will hopefully hear from Sabreman. Also are you using a LSZ1 machine? If so, what are the options that you have installed and were they worth having them.
|01-22-2012 05:43 PM|
I recovered my interior cushions 4 years ago. I was new and a klutz to sewing if youíre likewise these may be of some value to you otherwise it may just be overload.
It was a great winter project. I had 8 cushions to recover and it took several months. I set aside a room for the project.
Reading books on the subject were essential to me. I used The Big Book of Boat Canvas by Karen Lipe and Don Caseyís Canvaswork and Sail Repair. Either would have done the job. Lipeís book was more detailed and step by step.
I use Sunbrella as I wanted it to be bullet proof and hard to soil. As this is a guy-type boat simple and sturdy trumped comfortable and pretty. But that is oversimplified. Sunbrella is made to handle exterior weather and UV so itís overkill for interior use. It also has a relatively hard and less porous surface. Finally itís tough stuff so sewing it even on a sturdy machine is a lot more difficult than sewing softer interior fabrics. This is not an issue when youíre sewing two layers but with zippers and corners youíll be punching thru 4 or more layers. I also found it difficult to adjust bobbin tension with sunbrella. When I later made some cotton cleanliness covers out of canvass sewing was a breeze.
The point of all this is that you really have a wide range of fabrics to consider that will work well besides sunbrella as long as itís mildew resistant. Both books talk about the pros and cons of various types. There was also an article on fabrics to use in the July í04 Good Old Boat.
I donít recall the thread I used only that was a big, commercial spool. I got my stuff from a recreational fabrics store (Seattle Fabrics) who sell stuff for making tents, sleeping bags, knapsacks etc. They were very helpful on what I would need. Besides a lot of sturdy fabrics to look over they also had all the other stuff over like heavy duty zippers, snaps needles etc. There may be a similar store near you. It would be miles ahead of a regular sewing store. Quilt shops are a good source for miscellaneous tools.
A rotary fabric cutter that looks like a pizza cutter was invaluable. I went thru two blades. Take the warning seriously to keep the blade shield on when not in use. Itís not so much slicing off a piece of your finger but bleeding all over some expensive fabric thatís the problem.
I found a special 2 ft square plastic mat made for using the cutter helpful in minimizing the times I cut thru the dining room table cloth and into the table.
A seam ripper is also essential as from my inexperience I found myself ripping out and resewing seams fairly frequently until I got the hang of it. I found typically that Iíd complete a seam but find out that Iíd need to resew it to get a good match on top.
I used my original foam as replacing it was $$$$. That also let me disassemble and use the original covers to make measurements (not templates) for the replacements saving lotsaí time. Make sure you mark which side is inside and which is out.
Taylorís chalk, is great for marking where to cut and where to sew.
I put in piping. The stuff I used was plastic and kindaí stiff. A more flexible core would have been helpful. Also I found the pre-folded bias tape a pain to work with compared to the unfolded tape.
I found that I needed to remeasure and recut the zipper band after the zipper was sewn in. I also had to be careful to keep the zipper on the track to ensure that it would go into the fold.
Hope this is of some help
|01-22-2012 04:12 PM|
Interior cushions and the bottom mesh material
I have a 1993 Sabre 362 that I am redoing all my interior cushions. I noticed you also did yours and you used a mesh material for the bottom of the interior cushions. Could you tell me the type of material it is? I heard that Textilene Plus is a good material to use. What do you think? Does the textilene sew well to Sunbrella Yacht Upholstery Fabric and Ultrasuede? I will be using Sunbrella for the berths and Ultrasuede for the main cabin. Also what foam did you use for the berths vs the main salon area? I am thinking of using the following foams:
35 - 40 lb compression and 5 inches thick for seat bottoms
25 - 30 lb compression and 4 inches thick for seat backs
2.3 ppcf density
4 inches thick of blue density foam and 2 inches of latex on top for all the berths
I am also wondering what type of sewing machine you have and what thread you used.
Thanks for your help.
|05-04-2010 08:58 PM|
Originally Posted by sarafinadh View Post
|05-04-2010 08:14 PM|
|Baywind||According to their website it is UV resistant. I think it isn't usually used because it is really expensive. These are over runs, and are 25% of everywhere else I have looked. At this price I will make the covers out of it and replace it over the winter if it doesn't hold up.|
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