|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|04-22-2010 01:13 AM|
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|03-17-2010 01:32 PM|
Smack -- The windlass is on the floor in the corner of the living room. I can maintain my personal subcutaneous flotation at the dinner table.
The windlass is going back on the table for the final assembly.
|03-17-2010 01:26 PM|
Is there a key or something hidden in the shaft that is blocking the pull?
Other than the gunsmiths in the Khyber Pass...India is known for ship breakers (literally) and cheap steel tools, yes. But I don't think I'd invest time in grinding down and weakening the puller, if you can find a machine shop or autoshop they can probably pull that apart for $5-10 and IF there's something you aren't seeing that is holding it in place, sometimes the extra eyes are worthwhile.
Caveat on the grease: That URL for plumber's grease talks about an MSDS for teflon food-grade pipe dope, but shows a petroleum based product. They're confused and that's not a good thing.
With o-rings and lubes, the rings will fail if you use an incompatible lubricant. So, you don't use petroleum-based lubes on nylon and synthetics, you use synthetic (silicon, teflon, krytox) grease on them. Petroleum-based products often rot the synthetics, when in doubt you need to confirm what you've got. Rubber, Buna-n, silicone, all kinds of o-rings out there. (Yeah, go figure, grease ain't just grease and o-rings ain't just o-rings.)
|03-17-2010 11:58 AM|
|smackdaddy||I just want to know if your family is mad that you're making them eat on the floor.|
|03-17-2010 11:41 AM|
Separate question... Does anyone know how to make the corroded surface of the windlass look nicer? Do you recommend some white paint, or should I apply something else to it?
|03-17-2010 11:36 AM|
Good advice. I've been using a little WD-40. No PB blaster yet. Here's the breakout.
It helps visualise everything if you first look at the Brake Band (#441) as a large ring. The big part behind it is a separate part, partially blocked from view by the Brake Band.
It's the Clutch Cone (#436) that won't come off. Behind it is an O ring and a seal (I have both parts). Behind the seal is the Cover (#445). I'm yanking on the cover because there's no room between the Cover and the Clutch Cone - when I'm not yanking on it, there's 1/4 of an inch gap between them.
I got the puller for next to nothing on eBay, and don't mind having a special "Lofrans Falcon Windlass Clutch Cone Removal Tool" in the future. So I'm planning to grind down the "hand" on the puller arms so they'll fit between the clutch cone and the cover. Then I'll pull the clutch cone off. (The cover is already loose.)
|03-17-2010 09:39 AM|
You're trying to pull that casting off to replace an o-ring, right?
Another option would be to try to remove everything from the other end first.
Do you have the schematic? Make sure that you're supposed to disassemble it in that direction, there may be a shoulder on the shaft that you can't see.
If you have to remove it the other direction try using a short piece of pipe to drive everything off, be sure to protect the far end of the shaft (rest it on plywood) and maybe even use a large washer to protect the part of the case that the pipe rest on.
I would also try using plenty of PB blast, although once you start doing that will have to replace the o-ring then, and removal of the case becomes mandatory.
Check for any clips or pins that hold the gear in place, it would stink to pull the case apart and find out that you've dragged a pin across the o-ring sealing surface.
Also check for a partially sheared shaft key.
You also may be able to rent a shaft puller that has a 15 inches of reach from a rental store.
Hope this helps.
|03-16-2010 10:53 PM|
All parts are in. And I bought a gear puller off eBay.
Try as I might, I couldn't get the remaining part off the shaft. The part is best seen at the bottom of this picture:
I was pulling on the disk-shaped part that bolts onto the side of the housing, since I couldn't get the arms (hands?) of the puller around the other piece. Maybe that's the problem. I could grind down the hands so they'd fit in the gap between the 2 disks. That might work, since I think there might be somthing on the shaft to keep the rotating part from rubbing against the housing-part.
By the way, I noticed the puller is made in India. The threads on the big, threaded bolt are easily damaged. Maybe inferior steel? You get what you pay for with pullers, I guess.
Trying to get that list disk off.
What does everyone think, should I leave the disk in place and replace all the other "O" Rings, or grind down the hands of the gear puller so I can get behind the disk and replace that last "O" ring too. After all, the season is about to start and I have a bunch more projects to do.
(Oh, I know the answer. Just making conversation, I guess. Where's that grinder?)
|03-11-2010 08:51 AM|
|Freesail99||Great post please keep us informed as to what has happened.|
|03-10-2010 08:46 PM|
|davidpm||Don't leave us hanging Bene, waiting for parts?|
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