|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|09-13-2010 10:00 PM|
Did you solve the mystery of the bulging deck around the chain plate cover? What is your Hull number on your 10M? If it is less than hull 100 (and I suspect it is) then Pearson had an issue with the way in which the main chainplates were attached to the hull.
Since you haven't posted since March, I assume you worked it out?
|03-10-2010 01:45 PM|
Check this site out. It seems that 10Ms have a chainplate problem. Pretty much explains what you need to do. Pearson 10M Chainplates
|03-10-2010 10:01 AM|
good news.I think
I got caseys book..I removed a few bolts through the chainplate and bulkhear..They are dry and tight.. I need to find out if the deck is cored at this chainplate attachment location.When I remove the offending deck skin under the deck plate , if the deck is cored, I will remove core (a bit) beyond the dimention of the deck plate, fill with epoxy (remembering to seal the inside skin with a temp patch) sand and reinstall deck plate..If its not cored.....whats that mean? just the top skin (deck) and soekind of block or reinforcement under there? Since the deck is bulging a bit, I think I'll have to cut it out (somehow) and fill with epoxy as if it was cored...what do you think?
|03-07-2010 11:11 PM|
why didnt i think of that? thanks captain...I'll go down there tomorrow..
I dont want to think about what I'll do if its rotten..
|03-07-2010 10:47 PM|
|Captainmeme||Can you get to both sides of the bolt that holds the chain plates to the bulkhead? If so take one bolt out, that will expose the wood for inspection. Maybe the top bolt is the one to start with?|
|03-07-2010 10:43 PM|
I have removed some panels inside to get a look at the chainplate attachment ...It appears clean and healthy. Of course ,the bulkhead (or whatever one calls the thing the chainplate is bolted to) is wrapped in fiberglass..so whatever is under there (wood?) is not available to see...but the chainplate bolts dont look like they are moving..the fiberglass has no cracks..
What else can I do? Drill some exploratory holes to get a bit of the core? Cut away some fiberglass? I dont want to make matters worse..
I 'll get some pictures..maybe someone can recognize tell tale signs.
|03-07-2010 05:54 PM|
|JimsCAL||I would be ABSOLUTELy sure the chainplate attachment is OK. It is pretty unlikely the deck would bulge like that unless the chainplate is moving. You don't want to lose the mast over the side.|
|03-07-2010 09:48 AM|
Feel free to PM if you want to visit my restore and get pointed in the right direction as we must be within 10 minutes of each other
|03-07-2010 08:30 AM|
|davidpm||You are going to have the chain plate out of course so another thing to check is that the bulkhead or whatever the chain-plate is connected to is sound. If the holes wear and get elongated and someone put the the top cover plate on with 5200 it can actually pull the top skin of deck up.|
|03-07-2010 08:20 AM|
Here are a couple of good websites you should visit. I followed the directions in the westsystem site when I had the same situation. Worked out just as described and wasn't too difficult.
The second site is log of a guy who did a complete refit of a Pearson Triton. Might be some helpful information for you.
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