|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|03-22-2010 01:21 AM|
Mainesails posts are required reading as far as I'm concerned. I'm committed to a dry bilge now. I even got the turkey baster to prove it. (Actually the turkey baster was something I read about on a thread, not sure which one.) That and the wet/dry shop vac works wonders.
Finally, I rigged a device to catch the rain coming from the mast, before it gets to the bottom of the bilge where the keel bolts are. Been pretty happy with it, just have to remember to empty it every so often.
|03-22-2010 01:08 AM|
|RXBOT||Bene read Mainesails post a wet bilge is not just a nuisance from some years ago.|
|03-22-2010 12:47 AM|
Dog - it was definitely stretchy.
I'm going to give Sikaflex a try. It's what Jomsviking recommended on the AS site.
West Marine doesn't have it in stock, so I'll look into getting somewhere else, tomorrow.
Meanwhile, I covered the exposed iron with.... ((drumroll please)).. duct tape. Add that to the list of uses for the stuff. It may have surface rust by the time I start wire brushing it again, Maybe with a duct tape covering it there will be less rust.
I was planning a West Marine rant when I drove away thinking "Why don't they stock the things in their catalog?" I also note that they don't have navigation lights for the size of our boat, and other things as well. And you have to really look to find the diesel fuel treatment (and they only had the biocide, not the stuff that takes water out of the fuel). (end rant)
Sikaflex. Now I just have to figure out what type & what size. 20 oz tube, I'd think, for resealing all the way around the keel with new sikaflex.
|03-21-2010 12:36 PM|
Yes, it is pretty rubbery, but not very stretchy.
Originally Posted by Bene505 View Post
|03-21-2010 11:29 AM|
Don't panic. I just went through this with my boat and did a lot of research on the issue. This is normal for anyone who owns an iron keel. Use 5200 or 4200 (probably better as it sets faster) on the joint. The keel will work as you sail so you may need to do it every time you haul out. It is just the curse of the builder and is one of the one weak points in the design. You could get the yard to move the keel block to the aft of the keel, thereby opening the gap up a bit more. You could then get some sealant in there further and it should last longer.
|03-21-2010 10:36 AM|
Is 5200 rubbery? The stuff I pulled out yesterday was like a (rough) string of rubber.
|03-21-2010 10:31 AM|
|sailingdog||I'd use sikaflex but it is probably 5200.|
|03-21-2010 10:21 AM|
The keel is iron. I wire brushed back down to bare metal yesterday to see what's going on.
I do have some rust around the keel boats -- It may be becasue I left water in the bilge all year. With several compartments, all the water in the bilge doesn't get pumped out. And rain from the mast gets in too. Since being on the hard, I made rain catchers that catch the mast rain water, and I use a shop vac to get it completely dry.
Stainless bolts, by the way. I plan to follow Beneteau's recommendation to pick a random bolt each year and check it. (Normally Beneteaus have galvanized bolts.)
So it is Silkaflex?
|03-21-2010 09:33 AM|
|donradclife||Is the keel lead or iron?|
|03-21-2010 08:02 AM|
That looks like bare metal. IIRC, the Bendytoys used iron for the keel material...and having exposed metal like that is bad.
When you did the work last year, did you drop and re-bed the keel or just work on it as it was? If you didn't drop the keel, inspect the bolts and re-bed it, you should probably do that now.
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|