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Our PSC 31 has always been a freshwater boat and I'm trying to learn what needs to be done before launch to migrate to salt. Are there any other zincs in addition to teardrop and maxprop (Yanmar?)? Do you guys spray the zinc and bronze with the Petit barnacle paint? What about transducers? All suggestions appreciated.
Steve -
Heat exchanger zinc?
Never paint a zinc.
We always paint our shafts, props, etc. but some people say not to.
Never paint the area where the zinc will be attached (shaft etc.).
Bottom paint is usually rolled and/or brushed, not sprayed.
Pettit has lots of competition in bottom paint, ask around in the area you will be going to find out what works.
Transducers are a good source of argument. Most say not to paint the depth sounder, some say it doesn't make any difference. We always left it bare until we forgot once and it didn't seem to make any noticeable difference. We always paint the knotmeter, just remember to make sure it spins freely after it's dry and before you launch.
Let's see -- When you install a shaft zinc, make sure the bolt heads are facing in the direction of rotation when the trans is in forward. When you install the shaft zinc, tighten down firmly, tap it with a hammer, then tighten again. You don't want them coming off unnoticed.
You may have magnesiums, not zincs. Zincs don't really work in fresh water. The only downside to mag in salt is that it will be gone MUCH faster than a zinc.
The maxprop will be zinc as PYI does not offer a mag for the maxprop.
>Zincs don't really work in fresh water.
The zincs that are on Talisman are the original fifteen years ago - slightly pitted but otherwise in good shape. Still, I thought it best to replace them in case we do make it to salt.
Our bottom paint has always been Micron Extra which should be fine.
What is a shaft zinc? I'm not sure our boat has one.
What about all the bronze thru-hulls? Should the bottom paint be cleaned off these?
>Zincs don't really work in fresh water.
The zincs that are on Talisman are the original fifteen years ago - slightly pitted but otherwise in good shape.
Aside from switching over to saltwater zincs (as others pointed out, you should have a different type for fresh water) at the shaft and prop, and a possibly a different bottom paint formulation, I can't think of anything else.
There's nothing to do to the bronze thru-hulls -- they should be left unpainted.
It's a zinc collar that goes on your propeller shaft. Comes in sizes to match the diameter of the shaft. I use both a shaft zinc and a prop zinc.
They get replaced every year.
As FS Mike says ..Definitely check the heat exchanger zinc, if you have one,
and any engine zincs?
We use a shaft zinc on our boat. It's the doughnut-shaped one that goes between the cutless bearing and the prop. Then there's a cone-shaped prop-zinc too.
This is not my boat, it's another 31. But it shows the shaft zinc (no prop/cone zinc on this boat, though):
I have a MaxProp and there's only .70" between the prop and bearing. That doesn't seem like enough room with adequate clearance for rotation. Wouldn't the large zinc on the MaxProp protect the shaft and propeller?
My guess is that you'll probably be fine with just the prop zinc.
check it halfway through the season if you can.
For some reason, Sabres eat zincs, It's not just me, I've heard other owners decry this. So, I'm overly cautious replacing them.
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