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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Engines > Diesel > Yanmar 2GM20F Work...
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Thread: Yanmar 2GM20F Work... Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-29-2010 12:41 AM
krozet
Quote:
Originally Posted by trantor12020 View Post
krozet, one of your v-belt, the outer one, seems to be fitted reverse. if I'm not wrong, the notch side should be facing the pulley.
Hey;

I didn't remove the belts, they also narrow towards the bottom to fit in the groove on the pulley. My concern is that both belts seem a little loose and the tool that the manual says to use too tighten them I don't have.

Robert
04-29-2010 12:39 AM
krozet
Quote:
Originally Posted by Faster View Post
My thoughts too... on the Hurth the 'mark' is only 1/4 or 3/8" up the 'dipstick'..
Hey Faster;

Yeah I refereed to the manual, the problem was that the fluid was so low that it wasn't registering on the dipstick... The very bottom of the dipstick (the underside of the dipstick) had a smudge of fluid but nothing on the stick. The transmission plate listed that it took next to no fluid (.3 quarts I believe?) so I added maybe 4 tablespoons. Now it registers on the dipstick half way between the bottom and the mark.

Robert
04-28-2010 03:55 PM
Faster
Quote:
Originally Posted by norsearayder View Post
kroz check the manual before adding to the tranny,if i recolect it dont take much and too much is a problem...good luck
My thoughts too... on the Hurth the 'mark' is only 1/4 or 3/8" up the 'dipstick'..
04-28-2010 02:53 PM
norsearayder kroz check the manual before adding to the tranny,if i recolect it dont take much and too much is a problem...good luck
04-28-2010 11:42 AM
JimsCAL
Quote:
Originally Posted by trantor12020 View Post
krozet, one of your v-belt, the outer one, seems to be fitted reverse. if I'm not wrong, the notch side should be facing the pulley.
I'm pretty sure its OK. Some belts are made that way. It would be tough to get the fat side of a v-belt to even go in the pulley.
04-28-2010 08:02 AM
trantor12020 krozet, one of your v-belt, the outer one, seems to be fitted reverse. if I'm not wrong, the notch side should be facing the pulley.
04-27-2010 09:32 PM
SeaLifeSailing
Looks pretty familiar

This looks very familiar. My air cleaner cover looked very similar. I replaced the filter element and cleaned the housing with some solvent. I believe that the 'gunk' pictured in your photos are both 'dust' from the breakdown of the sponge in the filter element, and adhesive used by the manufacturer (on the metal screen) to adhere the foam to the screen. Nice to know that much of your sponge filter element probably went through your diesel before the previous owner tore it out, now allowing all sorts of even bigger particles to go through the motor. My engine ran, but I pulled the injectors and had them rebuilt. The company that serviced them remarked that they were surprised that the engine started at all, the injectors were so filthy. Even still, my engine only seemed to banging on 2 of three cylinders, which I discovered when I had to bleed the injector lines. After rebuilding my injector pump and adjusting the governor, my engine now runs perfectly. There's another post where I discuss a subsequent upgrade to my exhaust mixing elbow, after it failed at (of course) an inconvenient time.

Ah, the joys of rehabilitating an old diesel!!
04-18-2010 03:11 PM
klem I would agree with bljones recommendation. Once you have checked fluids and filters, the only normal adjustment required is the valves. This is something that you can learn to do quite easily if you have no previous experience. Very few diesels are designed as interference engines so even a valve that is badly out of adjustment is usually not a big problem.
04-18-2010 03:07 PM
bljones If it ain't broke....
There really is no such thing as a tune up on a diesel- there are no plugs to change, no distributor cap or rotor, the only timing is the injection pump, and if it is working it is working. it either runs well with no smoke, no hesitation and no bogging or it doesn't, fiddling with a decent running engine won't do much. Make sure your fuel is clean, your fuel filter is clean, your coolant lines are clear, you raw water pump is good, the air intake is unobstructed, check the intake and exhaust valve adjustment, and run her. All of that you can do yourself in a coupe of hours with a manual. if you don't have a manual, and need the specs on valve clearance, let me know and I will scan the relevant pages from my manual.
04-18-2010 01:54 PM
krozet With everything put back together I decided to try something. So I ran a line from a bucket of water to the raw water pump. The bucket was filled with fresh, clean water and a garden hose to keep filling it. With water flowing into the bucket and filling the tube with water I turned on the engine. It started up without a struggle at all.



I turned it on and let it idle for about 4 minutes and then pulled the RPM's up for a couple minutes. Then I lowered the RPM's down and let it idle for another 5 minutes before turning it off. Everything ran like a champ! Water came out the exhaust and there was no black, blue or white smoke, there was very little in the way of exhaust at all (other than the water). Problem 1 is that the RPM's don't show up on the tach so I gotta fix that.

I left the transmission in neutral as I have not topped up the fluid yet but all in all I feel like I had a successful couple days.

[/b]So Should I have a mechanic come in to do a tune up?[/b] All signs are good so far as the engine didn't hesitate at all, turned on with no issues, stopped with no issues. No loud noises, no chuging, ran smoothly as I throttled up and down...
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