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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > forestay turnbuckle conversion - furler
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Thread: forestay turnbuckle conversion - furler Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-11-2010 09:44 AM
Liquorice I know you're having problems now, but I've got that Profurl on my C&C 26.
It's great! Bullet proof!
Was on the boat when I bought it 8 years ago, and has been trouble free.
I've got long link plates on mine, and yes the turnbuckle fits up inside the drum. You can slide the drum up the foil to access the turnbuckle - 2 large grubscrews (I think!)
sam :-)
05-11-2010 03:50 AM
tap
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoWet View Post
I just got off the phone with Defender, and very nice lady helped out. She went to "that department" and came back to phone a few moments later and asked if I called on Friday about this issue (as it shows that I'm the most recent purchaser of the Profurl from them). I said no and mentioned our thread here.
Heh, that must have been me. They said they'd call me back today but I didn't get a call.

Looking over the parts list some more, I think there is another problem. The plastic locking devices that go over the ends of the clevis pin come in two sizes. Part 50092 has 8mm holes and is used with a 5/16" (~8mm) clevis pin or with the long link plates. For the 3/8" and larger clevis pin you want part 50091 which has a 10mm hole. I think my furler came with the 50092 part.

UPDATE: Called Wichard and after getting transferred to a couple people I got someone who knew a bit about the C290 system. He said you can use the threaded 3/8" clevis pin without the long link plates. There is a non-threaded one that's designed for that, but the threaded one will still work. However, I was right about the locking devices coming in two sizes, one with an 8mm hole for use with the long-link plates and one with a 10mm hole for the 3/8" and larger clevis pins. They said they'd send out the right one to me.
05-10-2010 04:55 PM
NoWet I just got off the phone with Defender, and very nice lady helped out. She went to "that department" and came back to phone a few moments later and asked if I called on Friday about this issue (as it shows that I'm the most recent purchaser of the Profurl from them). I said no and mentioned our thread here.

Response was the issue, the previous caller's and mine, is being addressed and that one should be in the mail in the next couple of days. She (Betsy, I think) said I'll get an email notice, at which time I'll post here.

Thanks.
05-09-2010 03:31 PM
tap
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
However, I would question if the turnbuckle will fit in the furler, since it doesn't appear to be designed to accommodate one. Also, there is the question of how you will access the turnbuckle, since the furler doesn't appear to allow for access.
I have this same furler and forestay attachment. I think it's possible to mount the furler over the turnbuckle. The larger furlers have an "optional turnbuckle cylinder", but on the C290/B29S model the turnbuckle cylinder is standard. Here's a post from someone at wichard-usa. Relevant bit is this:
Quote:
If your stay has a turn-buckle, yet you still want the drum mechanism to sit as low as possible, then all of our units are available with an optional turn-buckle cylinder. This allows more room, both in length and width, for the turn-buckle to slip deeper inside the drum mechanism so the drum mechanism can sit lower.
For the C290, the dimensions in the manual have the max turnbuckle diameter at 29mm and the max length from the lower eye to the end of upper terminal at 320 mm. How to adjust the turnbuckle with it inside the cylinder is described in the manual:
Quote:
To adjust the turnbuckle with an optional turnbuckle cylinder, disassemble both plastic or stainless steel locking devices and the screws located at the top of the turnbuckle cylinder. Lift the drum mechanism upwards to slide it over the extrusions until the upper part of the turnbuckle may be reached. Adjust the turnbuckle and secure it. Slip the drum mechanism down and reassemble in reverse order (see seq 59).
05-09-2010 01:30 PM
tap Yeah, it certainly isn't clear that including the optional long link plates means that they don't include the parts for mounting it low. In my case it even came with the wrong pin size. They fixed that quickly, but not the low mounting bit.
05-09-2010 09:42 AM
NoWet Tap.
Exactly. This is the same situation that I'm in. Even bought from defender. You'd think that if they gave you the link plates, which are optional (based on your installation parameters) that they'd throw in a non-threaded pin in the kit.

I guess that if enough people call them, they'll start supplying that extra pin. Thanks for your input.
05-09-2010 01:41 AM
tap I'm trying to install the same furler. As I understand it, there are two different kinds of clevis pins. If you use the long link plats, you get a pin with threads on each end. It looks like this.

The link plates go on the threaded part and then you secure them with ordinary lock nuts. The plastic gizmos secure the upper part of the link plates to the furler.

But, you are supposed to be able to install the furler down low with the turnbuckle inside the furler body. In that case you get a different clevis pin with no threads on the ends. The plastic gizmos go over the ends of that pin. Here's a diagram and a parts list

My furler came with a 12mm threaded pin, when what I wanted was a 3/8" non-threaded. I called defender, told them I was supposed to get a 3/8" and even gave them the part number (50001) and they had profurl/wichard send me a new pin. But I received a 3/8" threaded pin (part P039222), so I'm still waiting.
05-08-2010 10:42 PM
sailingdog Happy to help. Riggingonly.com is an excellent resource, and I'm fortunate to have them as my local rigging loft.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoWet View Post
The TE series appears to be exactly what I was looking for. It even mentions "Profurl".

Then I see that I'd still need the toggle so that it will attach to the chainplate.

Does everyone agree this is the correct setup then?

Thanks for the introduction of riggingonly.com. As you can see I've been lurking a long time here, and just purchased a new-to-me Mariner 28 to sail Lake Michigan, upgrading from a 19' Prindle.
05-08-2010 02:42 PM
BigZ Looking at the manual, it appears the pin in your first picture is actually meant to be the existing pin that attaches the toggle to the eye on the shroud end, the instructions read "Remove the captive pin". So maybe there is not a pin included in the kit, they meant for you to reuse what you have.
In your case, if your going with the new threaded eye/toggle combo, you could just use the pin that comes with the toggle and trim the gizmos as shown in the C dimension.

(edited to add info below)
IGNORE the above info, I think there was supposed to be an extra pin supplied with kit. The pin would have smaller diameter ends that fit inside the gizmos when the link plates weren't used. (Can't see how it would work otherwise.) My order did not arrive with the extra pin, maybe an additional reason I ended up using the link plates.
Be curious to see what customer service says.
05-08-2010 11:37 AM
NoWet No, not planning on using the link plates. The doubled ended threaded pin is, according to the instructions to be used with the linkplates. Not sure if my kit was missing a plain 'ol pin or not, so I'm searching for one now. Best I could come up with: Johnson Marine Stainless Steel Rigging Pins

Wasn't sure about a cotter pin, or a SCHAEFER Stainless-Steel Fastpins (from West Marine) would be "strong" enough for the forestay -- wouldn't want the pin to break and have the rig come crashing down.
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