|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-11-2010 09:44 AM|
I know you're having problems now, but I've got that Profurl on my C&C 26.
It's great! Bullet proof!
Was on the boat when I bought it 8 years ago, and has been trouble free.
I've got long link plates on mine, and yes the turnbuckle fits up inside the drum. You can slide the drum up the foil to access the turnbuckle - 2 large grubscrews (I think!)
|05-11-2010 03:50 AM|
Originally Posted by NoWet View Post
Looking over the parts list some more, I think there is another problem. The plastic locking devices that go over the ends of the clevis pin come in two sizes. Part 50092 has 8mm holes and is used with a 5/16" (~8mm) clevis pin or with the long link plates. For the 3/8" and larger clevis pin you want part 50091 which has a 10mm hole. I think my furler came with the 50092 part.
UPDATE: Called Wichard and after getting transferred to a couple people I got someone who knew a bit about the C290 system. He said you can use the threaded 3/8" clevis pin without the long link plates. There is a non-threaded one that's designed for that, but the threaded one will still work. However, I was right about the locking devices coming in two sizes, one with an 8mm hole for use with the long-link plates and one with a 10mm hole for the 3/8" and larger clevis pins. They said they'd send out the right one to me.
|05-10-2010 04:55 PM|
I just got off the phone with Defender, and very nice lady helped out. She went to "that department" and came back to phone a few moments later and asked if I called on Friday about this issue (as it shows that I'm the most recent purchaser of the Profurl from them). I said no and mentioned our thread here.
Response was the issue, the previous caller's and mine, is being addressed and that one should be in the mail in the next couple of days. She (Betsy, I think) said I'll get an email notice, at which time I'll post here.
|05-09-2010 03:31 PM|
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
|05-09-2010 01:30 PM|
|tap||Yeah, it certainly isn't clear that including the optional long link plates means that they don't include the parts for mounting it low. In my case it even came with the wrong pin size. They fixed that quickly, but not the low mounting bit.|
|05-09-2010 09:42 AM|
Exactly. This is the same situation that I'm in. Even bought from defender. You'd think that if they gave you the link plates, which are optional (based on your installation parameters) that they'd throw in a non-threaded pin in the kit.
I guess that if enough people call them, they'll start supplying that extra pin. Thanks for your input.
|05-09-2010 01:41 AM|
I'm trying to install the same furler. As I understand it, there are two different kinds of clevis pins. If you use the long link plats, you get a pin with threads on each end. It looks like this.
The link plates go on the threaded part and then you secure them with ordinary lock nuts. The plastic gizmos secure the upper part of the link plates to the furler.
But, you are supposed to be able to install the furler down low with the turnbuckle inside the furler body. In that case you get a different clevis pin with no threads on the ends. The plastic gizmos go over the ends of that pin. Here's a diagram and a parts list
My furler came with a 12mm threaded pin, when what I wanted was a 3/8" non-threaded. I called defender, told them I was supposed to get a 3/8" and even gave them the part number (50001) and they had profurl/wichard send me a new pin. But I received a 3/8" threaded pin (part P039222), so I'm still waiting.
|05-08-2010 10:42 PM|
Happy to help. Riggingonly.com is an excellent resource, and I'm fortunate to have them as my local rigging loft.
Originally Posted by NoWet View Post
|05-08-2010 02:42 PM|
Looking at the manual, it appears the pin in your first picture is actually meant to be the existing pin that attaches the toggle to the eye on the shroud end, the instructions read "Remove the captive pin". So maybe there is not a pin included in the kit, they meant for you to reuse what you have.
In your case, if your going with the new threaded eye/toggle combo, you could just use the pin that comes with the toggle and trim the gizmos as shown in the C dimension.
(edited to add info below)
IGNORE the above info, I think there was supposed to be an extra pin supplied with kit. The pin would have smaller diameter ends that fit inside the gizmos when the link plates weren't used. (Can't see how it would work otherwise.) My order did not arrive with the extra pin, maybe an additional reason I ended up using the link plates.
Be curious to see what customer service says.
|05-08-2010 11:37 AM|
No, not planning on using the link plates. The doubled ended threaded pin is, according to the instructions to be used with the linkplates. Not sure if my kit was missing a plain 'ol pin or not, so I'm searching for one now. Best I could come up with: Johnson Marine Stainless Steel Rigging Pins
Wasn't sure about a cotter pin, or a SCHAEFER Stainless-Steel Fastpins (from West Marine) would be "strong" enough for the forestay -- wouldn't want the pin to break and have the rig come crashing down.
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|