|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-21-2010 08:50 PM|
I had the gasket changed when I was getting water in the lube oil. It's a pretty big job unless you are an experienced mechanic. Labor to have it done ran about $500 I think. You can buy thermostats from Torrensen(DieselDirect) online, though prices seem to have gone way up. I think the one sold for the Atomic 4 is the same and I have seen better prices on the sites that support those engines.
|06-16-2010 12:43 AM|
Thanks Jim...very helpful.. How did you know your head gasket had to be changed and how big of an undertaking was it? Based on what you're saying, it seems that I should be purchasing and installing a new thermostat. I think I saw one on Catalina Direct...is that where I should get it or do you have a better suggestion?
By the way, sorry to everyone for the very OT topic on the Block Island Thread...It is loosely related in that I can't go if my engine is overheating :-)
|06-15-2010 09:07 PM|
I lived with a 5411 for 20 years. Some comments. It should run at 140F or so - 180 is too high and will cause rapid scale formation. The thermostat is required to force water out of the recirculation loop. Without one the engine will overheat (unless something else is wrong and restricting the recirculation). When I had my head gasket changed, I found 3 of the 8 coolant passages in the head completely plugged. Something to consider this if acid flushing doesn't open up things. And use oxalic acid - much safer than muriatic.
|06-14-2010 05:10 PM|
Thanks Hugo..all great ideas and I would like to borrow your gauge to see where the problem might be.. I just left a message for the PO to ask what troubleshooting he had done. Because he was on the south shore, I truly believe that he didn't motor around for extended periods of time; he never kept the overheating from me I just don't think he used the boat nearly as often as I do. I'll let you know what he says when he calls me back.
As of this writing, the flow is still excellent but I've only kept it at 2k rpms. Under most circumstances, that keeps me at around hull speed, so anything more would just be a waste. I motored the whole way back at 2k rpms from Port Washington after visiting Nick and his wife on their boat yesterday without a problem.
I'm going to email you back in a little while regarding upcoming trips.
|06-14-2010 01:46 AM|
Hi Michael, Sorry to hear you still have overheating issues...just a few thoughts...
do you have a manual and/or know what your max rpm's/cruisingrpm's should be?
did you or the po change the prop recently?
check flow of cooling water with laser temp gauge
(inexpensive to buy or you can borrow mine) very
handy tool...you can check the temp along the way
and get a good idea where things are heating up!
do you know anyone with the same motor, you could do same check and get a good idea what is normal.
not familiar with your motor but raw water should run
not more than140-150 degrees.
check mixing elbow for clog/constriction.
check for bad head gasket.
can you contact po, he removed thermostat
because of overheating then sold the boat,
just a guess but he or his mech may have
an idea of what may be the problem.
Good luck, Hugo
Just back from Mt Sinai...thanks all for help and advise.
Great little harbor!
|06-12-2010 11:21 PM|
|mlong9876||The thermostat is the only unknown because after the acid flush, the engine has been expelling water beautifully unless I keep above 2000 rpms for a long time. The former owner told me he removed the thermostat because of the overheating issue but I don't think he ever did any sort of a flush to make the water expel properly. I'm going to try to contact him but for now, there is no thermostat.|
|06-12-2010 09:46 PM|
Sorry, I didn't realize your engine was raw water cooled. So your engine is much simpler - only 1 pump and no heat exchanger. So you don' have to worry about removing the cap and cleaning it out.
I believe that your engine has a thermostat. Perhaps that is bad? If not, I wonder if your cooling passages are plugged with salt? That's about all I can think of.
|06-12-2010 12:11 PM|
** Semi OT ** From previous post
Have you checked the heat exchanger? There are two end caps that you can remove (don't worry, no coolant will leak out). Take the caps off and see if there is debris in there. If the heat exchanger is full of scale, salt, etc. I would remove it from the boat and take it to a radiator shop where they can properly clean it. It's not hard to do that, let me know if you need instructions.
Hi Barry, It looks like I need those instructions on how to remove the heat exchanger. My engine stays cool until I push it over 2100 rpms for extended periods. Logic says, "well, then don't do that" but I would like to see if there is a way for it to work properly, at all rpms, without having issues.
|06-10-2010 12:49 AM|
|mlong9876||Sailnet bleeped the second part of "seacock" with asterisks. I thought that's how it was spelled and wasn't trying to be funny. Big brother has taken my words out of context and censored me, now I'll never get Rep Power...BTW, how do you get rep power?|
|06-10-2010 12:46 AM|
The engine is a Universal 5411 and it is raw water cooled. There is no radiator (or place to house coolant) that I know about and the thermostat was removed by the former owner.
I went down today after performing the muriatic acid flush and leaving it in the engine overnight. I flushed it this afternoon with sea water, fresh water from the hose and then sea water again. Water is rushing out better than ever but I'm still skeptical because I've been here before. I have a feeling that the hose from the sea **** to the pump is less than perfect. I think that when the engine in drawing so much water at high rpms, combined with the heat of the engine (because of its proximity) it is causing a portion of the hose to constrict. I'm not positive but I did go the hardware store (the closest place at the time) and got another hose that I knew wasn't right. I then went to a marine store to get what I think will be the right hose. It is much thicker than the current hose so I think it should hold up.
Last season I had a mechanic come by and clean out the exhaust but I am more than willing to do it again or remove it to bring it to a radiator shop if the problem comes back. I appreciate your offer and will definitely call upon your expertise if and when that happens.
At this point, I tested it for a while at the dock, both under load and in neutral but it was raining and I was getting soaked so this only lasted about an hour. I have to take it out to really see if its working properly at high rpms for extended periods of time (2-3 hours) before I'll believe that it is truly working. I hope there's no wind when I do this, otherwise the other sailors will laugh that I'm buzzing around the harbor at 6 knots for hours on end during a perfectly good day. :-)
Good luck with your engine. Please let us know how it goes.
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