|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-03-2010 07:40 AM|
OK. My advice is this:
1.Find a shop/parts distributor that specifically deals with Volvo Marine stuff. They will have the best knowledge and resources for parts.
2.Try to get a "service manual" for your engine (from a dealer, parts shop, online, etc). Hopefully it's available - it will explain the fuel system and "bleeding" procedure for your engine.
3. Learn to change fuel filters. Often there are two. If there are two (trace the fuel line from tank to injector pump), the first one (from tank), named "primary", is probably not a Volvo part. It would be in a filter housing mounted off the engine (usually). If there is a primary (two fuel filt system) the housing brand/part num, or element id, is what you need to find the part. There will be a fuel filter mounted on the engine. Note the brand and PN. Probably, there are many brands that will fit. My opininion - get them from the Volvo guy.
4. Carry extra fuel filters.
About fuel and diesels:
crap in the fuel is a common issue with diesel and diesel engines (long story) that stop the engine. Long story, I'll leave it at that. It's a basic fix, if you can swing a wrench and get dirty. Also, unlike gas engines, diesels can't deal with any air in the fuel system.
Anyway, in my experience, being able to change fuel filters, and bleed the air from fuel lines, has saved the day several times.
Also, look into "Biocides" (Biobor is wellknown) that kill the crap growing in your fuel tank.
Changing oil as recommended by the manufacturer is important. More important than with a gas car. Old engines - more often. Another long story. Again- the interval will be speced in the manual. I'd guess 100 hrs, or annually? Important.
Oil change. Get old oil out. Remove filt. Replace filt. Replace oil. Check level ( not over high mark). Run engine a few minutes (watch oil pressure gauge, should go up in 5-10sec). Shut down, check oil level after a few minutes. Add oil to bring level near high mark (not over).
Getting oil out: unlike a car, usually pulling the plug from the oil pan is not an option. Marine places sell hand pumps for $40 (give or take) are made for this. One way is to suck oil out the dipstick tube. Works good if the oil is warm.
Filters are usually spin on. Spin the old one off, spin the new one on. Problem is, often they are very hard to get at ( and other issues with tight installations).
Oh ya. Get a bunch of "Sorbent" pads. They absorb oil that is trying to get in your bilge.
oil change: 1st time: 4 hrs. Including research, buying parts, figuring it all out, dispossing of crap, washing hands. 2nd time: 45 min
fuel filts: 1st time 4 hrs. 2nd time: 30 min.
That 1st 8 hrs includes learning how to do it. For someone new to it all. I wonder if that's what the "Marine Mechanic" was thinkin?
Let me know how it goes
oh ya. The "DE" ( or any service starting with D) is obsolete. It's all changed. Ask a Volvo guy.
|06-02-2010 11:27 AM|
I'll take all the advice you can type. I read.about bleeding the fuel lines, but.haven't tried. Also, the sae 30 is service DS, not day, my typo. Thanks for walking me though. It's better for me to learn how to do all of this maintenance.
|06-02-2010 07:39 AM|
Here's some stuff:
SAE 30 was the recommended viscosity. Otherwise known as 30 weight.
Apparently, at the time "DAY" was a service rating (I haven't heard of).
The service rating thing has changed since '72. You'll never find oil with that rating today.
Talk to a Volvo marine shop that services marine stuff (not a new engine sales guy).
Oil has changed, ratings have changed. Probably any SAE 30 (30 weight) with a rating for diesels (starts with "C") is as good as the original spec.
Multi-viscosity oil (SAE 15w-40) may be a better choice.
A Volvo Marine Service shop will know the answer. The NAPA guy? Maybe.
The quote of 8 hrs. is unreasonable. The guy doesn't want that work.
Guys know that oil, fuel filter, oil filter changes on sailboats can really suck. It can be very hard to get at stuff. Yes, it should take 2 hrs, or less, if everything is accessable.
Diesel fuel filters:
I'd advise anyone with a diesel aux to have the ability (knowledge, tools, filters) to change fuel filters, and bleed fuel lines. I'll explain this advice, if you ask.
|06-01-2010 02:07 PM|
|ssb432||Thanks for all the return posts and.the welcome. Needed some feedback after the diesel mechanic quoted 8 hours to do the oil change and replace the fuel filters. I thought that work should take 2 hours max, by a certified mechanic.|
|05-29-2010 08:16 AM|
|mgmhead||Say, just noticed you're a 'newbie'. Welcome aboard.|
|05-29-2010 08:14 AM|
In my Volvo MD 11-C I am using 15W-40 Shell Rotella-T. It is the same lubricant that the PO used for the 10-years he owned the boat. BTW, he worked for Shell and was on the team that developed the Rotella-T (he tells me) so I think he knew what he was doing in making that choice.
FWIW, I think Rotella-T to be an excellent product...MGM
|05-29-2010 07:47 AM|
|paulk||The guy at NAPA knows cars and trucks (or perhaps not), but is not likely familiar with marine diesels. The loads on marine engines and the way they are used (constant load, short duration) are different from the situation on the road. Any sae 30 oil will work in your engine, but if Volvo calls for a specific brand or type beyond that, it's because they've determined their engine will work better (longer, cooler, etc.)) with what they've specified. Ask your mechanic or Volvo to see if there's an updated list of approved lubricating oils for your engine, since 1972 was a while back. Our Yamaha specifies a funky-named oil that even in some marinas they have to dig out from the back- but they have it, because they're dealing with boats.|
|05-28-2010 11:46 AM|
Oil change for a volvo md6b diesel.
Ok, I'm asking what oil to buy for my Volvo penta diesel. The 1972 manual says sae 30 service DAY. The guy at Napa gave me sae 30, but it reads "for gasoline engines and turbocharged" , so I did not buy it.