|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-22-2010 06:25 AM|
|tytower||Try a valve clearance check rather than adjustment , perhaps one is being held open . They can tighten themselves up sometimes.|
|06-20-2010 08:07 PM|
Still stalling at 1100 rpm even in neutral
Originally Posted by tytower View Post
|06-19-2010 04:52 PM|
For the OP and this one
Originally Posted by capcass View Post
So if your Alternator is under load because its trying to charge your batteries that will cause it . If your water pump is building up pressure for some reason that might stall it. If the shaft into the gearbox is binding for any reason that will do it.Perhaps there is a problem moving the rocker gear or a valve bent . Whatever causes the load.
Have the idle set higher than recommended . Say set it at 1000 rpm to be sure . It does not use much more fuel at that speed than 750 rpm,and you will feel safer. Your motor is talking to you all the time . Its saying ¨I´m loaded up and having trouble here Boss¨
|06-18-2010 12:34 PM|
|JimsCAL||If starts readily after stalling, its not air lead in fuel lines.|
|06-18-2010 12:08 PM|
|capcass||Thanks. I think I've already checked all that, but I'll got over it again. Wouldn't any air leak cause stalling or none starting regardless of rpm?|
|06-17-2010 01:02 PM|
At least 9 times out of 10 this condition is caused by an air leak in the system before the lift pump. If the leak were after the lift pump it would likely be a dripping fuel leak, but not always.
Do you get clear fuel to the engine mounted fuel filter (with the bleed screw open) when manually operating the pump? If not, start at the tank and check each connection and filter for proper seating. You may have to remove the tank pickup if there are connections in the tank above the fuel level. You may have to disconnect and reconnect each fitting. I would use diesel rated thread compound on threaded fittings. You could temporarily put some clear heavy wall tubing inline before the lift pump to check for air bubbles in the system. Good luck.
|06-17-2010 12:28 PM|
Similiar problem Yanmar 2gm
I have a 1980 Yanmar 2Gm installed on my 30ft sailboat. It runs fine at all rpms, except below 1100 when it stalls. I've changed the injectors, filters and bled the system withtout any remedy. The lift pump was replaced last year. Any suggestion as to what to check next (i.e injector pump timing, compression, valve adjustment, etc.) ? I am prepared to bring in a diesel mechanic, but would like to know that he is following the right diagnostic process rather that just changing parts. Any suggestion on what may be the most likely cause of this low idle stalling condition for this engine would be greatly appreciated.
Gary Cassidy, USCG Master
|06-09-2010 08:11 PM|
Try finding a manual for your engine (perhaps on-line). That will tell you whether your engine would normally have come with a tach, and what type of sensor. I am no mechanic, but some work off of the alternator, others by counting teeth on the flywheel / magetic pickup, etc .
My Yanmar had no tach, but did have the magnetic pickup tach sensor to count teeth, so I just had to buy the appropriate type of tach. I bought a Faria tach made for diesels (had appropriate rpm range)
here are two different types:
|06-09-2010 06:03 PM|
|bfloyd825||Check for a fuel leak as others have mentioned. Also, the idle may be set a tad too low as well.|
|06-08-2010 10:40 PM|
|jrd22||I agree with Steve above that you would normally have problems at high load/rpm if it was a clogged filter. I would check the idle rpm (when hot)with a handheld tach and if it is below manufacturer's specs adjust it up. It could be that you have some air still in the system or a small air leak as Steve said. With the engine idling crack open one the line to an injector (do them all), if you see any air bubbles you have air getting in somewhere.|
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