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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > converting raw water head to fresh water
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Thread: converting raw water head to fresh water Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-02-2011 03:12 PM
turbulicity
Quote:
Originally Posted by mitiempo View Post
If the T is in the drain above the waterline you will pump air.
Sorry, didn't make this clear enough. My sink (as most do, I suspect) drains rather slowly. So I can T from just above the waterline on the sink drain hose. Run the faucet and start pumping the head. Would be nice to have a valve there at the T-joint so that I can go back to raw water flushing on long trips.
06-01-2011 11:54 PM
Stu Jackson Holding Tank Failure & Fresh Water to Head from the Sink in the Head FLIX

Two pages, with discussion about dos and don'ts.
06-01-2011 10:44 PM
mitiempo If the T is in the drain above the waterline you will pump air.
06-01-2011 06:28 PM
turbulicity Hope I can revive this thread a little. I am living aboard and I currently flush with raw water. It smells although the head is used frequently.

I don't like the idea of T'ing from sink discharge thru-hull since that means I either have to pump everything from sink to the holding tank or constantly have to reach in and turn the thru hull on and off.

I was thinking of T-ing the head inlet from the sink drain hose but at a position just above the waterline. After all, from waterline up to the sink, the hose is filled with fresh water all the time. So, I can wet-pump the head a couple of times without closing the sink discharge thru-hull and it would pull in the fresh water standing in the hose. If more is needed, run the faucet a little and pump more.

Does this sound reasonable? Am I missing something?
06-25-2010 08:19 AM
sailingdog The problem with that is that it will put extra wear on the head pump's seals, since the intake side is constantly working without any lubrication. The pumps on the heads are not designed to work that way. It is a really bad idea, at least in the long term, to use a head that way. Also, 1 gallon won't last for more than a few flushes, if you're flushing with enough water to clear the lines of any waste. If you're not clearing the lines of waste, then, you're asking for a nasty hose permeation/clogging problem to set in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LookingForCruiser View Post
I keep it a lot simpler than this, I just have a 1 gallon jug of spring water on the floor in the head. When I need to flush, just pour some in the bowl.
06-24-2010 11:33 PM
LookingForCruiser I keep it a lot simpler than this, I just have a 1 gallon jug of spring water on the floor in the head. When I need to flush, just pour some in the bowl.
06-24-2010 11:02 PM
PaulRJordan
simple solution

On my C27, the sink drain and head raw water intake use the same through hull. I leave the through hull valve closed. To flush the head, fill the sink 1/2full with clean tank water, then switch head to wet bowl and pump. This drains the sink into the intake line of the head. No replumbing necessary and give you option of using raw water if you prefer by simply opening the seacock on the through hull.
06-24-2010 10:39 PM
sailingdog Using the head sink drain line allows the sink to act as a vacuum break and eliminates any risk of cross-contamination.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichH View Post
You should consider to follow standard 'sanitary' piping rules and regs. so that the fresh water system isnt 'retrograde contaminated' from the toilet/head !!!!

... and this isnt easy to do on a boat. Check valves, y valves, etc. CAN NOT do the job of protecting a fresh water system from retrograde contamination.
To do this job properly you have to 'cobble' a system that functions similarly to a household toilet .... the water system delivers to ***separate Tank*** and the separate tank delivers to the toilet ****through an 'air gap'****. The separate tank has a valve on the INLET of the fresh water to the separate tank and that valve ***IS ABOVE THE LEVEL OF THE WATER in the separate tank***. Thats the NSF and 'sanitary' regs.' for all 'toilets' in the USA where the 'supply water' is connected to POTABLE water. This PREVENTS harmful bacteria from entering 'retrograde' into the potable water supply ... bacteria moving against the normal flow of water.
06-24-2010 05:32 PM
jjablonowski The sink drain and the head raw-water intake on my Catalina 25 share the same through-hull with a T connection.

When I want to flush fresh water into the head, I fill the sink, close the through-hull ball valve, then suck the sink dry with the head.

(Works great for pulling pink antifreeze into the head, too.)
06-24-2010 12:46 PM
RichH You should consider to follow standard 'sanitary' piping rules and regs. so that the fresh water system isnt 'retrograde contaminated' from the toilet/head !!!!

... and this isnt easy to do on a boat. Check valves, y valves, etc. CAN NOT do the job of protecting a fresh water system from retrograde contamination.
To do this job properly you have to 'cobble' a system that functions similarly to a household toilet .... the water system delivers to ***separate Tank*** and the separate tank delivers to the toilet ****through an 'air gap'****. The separate tank has a valve on the INLET of the fresh water to the separate tank and that valve ***IS ABOVE THE LEVEL OF THE WATER in the separate tank***. Thats the NSF and 'sanitary' regs.' for all 'toilets' in the USA where the 'supply water' is connected to POTABLE water. This PREVENTS harmful bacteria from entering 'retrograde' into the potable water supply ... bacteria moving against the normal flow of water.
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