|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|08-07-2010 09:28 PM|
Bleeding the fuel system wasn't the horror I thought it may be, just followed what the book said to do and it worked fine the first time.
No leaks, will sea trial it when the rain stops....about October probably.
|08-06-2010 03:22 PM|
I think I can get a couple thousand hours out of the engine, probably longer than I'll own the boat.
And no, I don't see some of those things you asked about Capnblu, care to point them out and explain what you're talking about?
|08-06-2010 12:26 PM|
|Capnblu||How long are you expecting to get out of the bottom end of your engine, now that you have replaced the top end? How long do you think the main seals will last, compared to the new top end? How about the bearings, and rings? Now that you have it apart, can you see how oil couldn't get into your heat exchanger from your not blown head gasket? Can you see how the valves were adjusted improperly, and inconsistently from each other? Do you also notice that the fuel injector pop pressure varied between cylinders? Isn't learning fun?|
|08-06-2010 10:17 AM|
First thing to do is make sure your diesel filters are clean and full of fuel. If they are old or not been replaced then get new ones and fill them with CLEAN diesel fuel before screwing them on.
Next crack the fuel lines at the injectors. Just crack them do not unscrew them.
Then have someone crank the engine until you see fuel leaking from the cracked fuel lines. Stop cranking then tighten the lines up again. This should get the bulk of the air out of your fuel system.
If you still have problems then repeat the process until it starts. You do need a experienced mechanic to make sure your fuel pump timing is correct. But that can be held off for another day. Not to long or your exhaust will get clogged up again.
|08-06-2010 01:17 AM|
The heat exchanger tank was pretty crappy looking, got a new one and used my old core. I bought a new cylinder head assembly, studs, bolts, gaskets, o-rings, injectors, high pressure injector lines, etc.....about $3500 worth of stuff
The head, header tank, injectors and fuel lines are back on the engine. Tomorrow I'll get the water pump, CSW pump, alternator and all the hoses back on and see if I can get her running. I've been wanting to find out how to bleed fuel lines, I'll be able to check that off soon.
If it wasn't for the fact I'm missing a lot of sailing, this has been enjoyable....other than writing the check that is.
Thanks for the input.
|08-05-2010 02:44 PM|
Another way to pinpoint what the gasket leaked and where is the carbon on the pistons and valves.
Carbon doesn't like coolant or water. It will tend to get cleaned away from any water in a cylinder and go the way of exhaust. #2 looks pretty clean to me I can see the emblem on the exhaust valve. I think your just looking at a head gkt. But check for warpage by sending out the head for inspection to be sure.
Change the Bolts if they are stretch bolts or you will be doing this job again. Read your manual and torque them as the book and HelloSailor said to do. You should have been able to buy a complete head set with bolts and all gkts. Also make sure the intake and exhaust surfaces are clean as water sometimes runs through the intake manifold on engines and the exhaust should go out the stern not into your cabin. That could make for a bad sailing day.
Also this thing may be getting hot. Get a new thermostat and gkt and check the impeller and all coolant lines for leaks and operation.
Best of luck
|08-05-2010 01:40 PM|
If you can get that hole welded up, you're back in business. Polish off the rust, check the block and head for warping while you are at it, do a leakdown test on the cylinders to make sure the rings and walls are still OK. (Piston down, fill cylinder with kero or diesel, see if it leaks down past the rings overnight. And of course--drain and change the oil afterwards if it does.)
The engine looks OK from here but that's a view from a distance. :-)
|08-05-2010 02:28 AM|
Finally got all the parts rounded up and started working on the engine. Disassembly went well.
When I was cleaning the coke/carbon out of the heat exchanger I found a hole through the casting into the water jacket from the exhaust area. Yanmar is pretty proud of their heat exchanger tanks.
Once the head was off I found water in the #1 and #2 cylinders and rusty water around the stud next to the #1 cylinder. The gasket appeared intact, but it looks to me like water has been migrating around the gasket. Here's a couple of pics:
This first one is of the cylinder head --
This is looking down into the cylinders --
And this last one is a closer look at the #1 cylinder --
I took the pics right after removing the head without doing any cleanup, etc.
Is this what a bad head gasket looks like?
|07-02-2010 03:25 PM|
|Capnblu||Ok S, no problem. I am not interested in the hypothesis of what might be wrong, and the 5 pages of bunk it will create here. Only the facts are important to diagnose your problem, not feelings or guesses. Including mine! Also I do this for entertainment, and remain annomous I do not want or need to prove to anyone my credintals ever again. If I did, this would be work, and work sucks. Besides, i am on holidays. So, Aloha.|
|07-02-2010 11:27 AM|
You're not giving me any info. You keep implying you think it's something other than a head gasket or cracked head but you won't say what...frankly that puts a sprinkling of doubt in my mind about your expertise in the manner.
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