SailNet Community - Reply to Topic
Thread: Replacing bulkhead bolted chainplates with deck bolted with a wire strut Reply to Thread
Title:
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



  Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

  Topic Review (Newest First)
07-05-2010 02:44 PM
MAnDaRIn
Quote:
Originally Posted by mitiempo View Post
I'd use 2 layers of plywood curved over a form with epoxy between them and then glass over it with epoxy and light cloth. Easier as you don't need a mold, just as strong and cheaper. Just as durable as well.
PO made the last one like that somehow the water got inside and rotted it out.
07-05-2010 03:11 AM
mitiempo I'd use 2 layers of plywood curved over a form with epoxy between them and then glass over it with epoxy and light cloth. Easier as you don't need a mold, just as strong and cheaper. Just as durable as well.
07-05-2010 01:40 AM
MAnDaRIn
Quote:
Originally Posted by mitiempo View Post

ps You have used the quote button more in this post than I have in over 2000 posts.
Huh? ahahha
what if I was making a mold for the companion way slider hatch. regular glass cloth? biaxial reinforcement? How many layers?
07-05-2010 12:47 AM
mitiempo For a structural bulkhead of any kind I would use 2 at least, maybe 3. Fillet the corner first with thickened epoxy by using a piece of plastic or wood that has a round corner. This stops the biax from having to take a corner and leaves it in a gentle curve. You might find it easier to cut the biax into easy to manage strips about 2' long or so and wetting them out before putting them on. Do this on a piece of plywood covered with thick plastic wrapped over the edges and stapled or taped underneath. Wet the biax thoroughly but make sure there is no excess resin as it adds nothing. Use the roller to squeeze out any bubbles. Overlap the biax, first to one side and then the other and finish up with a layer down the middle. Or use several widths of biax, starting with the narrowest and then the thicker ones.

ps You have used the quote button more in this post than I have in over 2000 posts.
07-05-2010 12:21 AM
MAnDaRIn
Quote:
Originally Posted by mitiempo View Post
Buy biaxial tape long enough to do the tabbing you need in as many layers you wish. You won't need a lot of resin so I'd start with the 32 oz size and the matching 7oz of 206 hardener. If you need more you can get another. I think the next size up is a gallon and you shouldn't need that much unless you are going to be using it for other things. The 404 comes in a container about 4" in diameter and 11" high. That should do the job. Disposable brushes as it's not worth trying to clean them and a 3" basic roller with a few extra sleeves. Latex gloves and acetone to clean up.
How many layers of biaxial tape is the normal for a bulkhead?
07-04-2010 11:36 PM
mitiempo Buy biaxial tape long enough to do the tabbing you need in as many layers you wish. You won't need a lot of resin so I'd start with the 32 oz size and the matching 7oz of 206 hardener. If you need more you can get another. I think the next size up is a gallon and you shouldn't need that much unless you are going to be using it for other things. The 404 comes in a container about 4" in diameter and 11" high. That should do the job. Disposable brushes as it's not worth trying to clean them and a 3" basic roller with a few extra sleeves. Latex gloves and acetone to clean up.
07-04-2010 11:22 PM
MAnDaRIn
Quote:
Originally Posted by mitiempo View Post
Not for wetting out the biax. It should never be wetted out with thickened epoxy. Here's a link to West's Fiberglass Repair Manual. You can download this and it is full of good advice for using their products or really any other companies epoxy products. Fiberglass Boat Repair and Restoration
The link to the manual is at the top of the page and the articles below are worth reading as well.
how much of everything will i need?
07-04-2010 10:52 PM
mitiempo Not for wetting out the biax. It should never be wetted out with thickened epoxy. Here's a link to West's Fiberglass Repair Manual. You can download this and it is full of good advice for using their products or really any other companies epoxy products. Fiberglass Boat Repair and Restoration
The link to the manual is at the top of the page and the articles below are worth reading as well.
07-04-2010 10:47 PM
MAnDaRIn
Quote:
Originally Posted by mitiempo View Post
404 would work for filling the holes but what do you mean both applications? The biaxial should be wetted out with epoxy without thickeners added.
what else could i use it for?
07-04-2010 10:38 PM
mitiempo 404 would work for filling the holes but what do you mean both applications? The biaxial should be wetted out with epoxy without thickeners added.
This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome