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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Woodwork.
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Thread: Woodwork. Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-09-2010 12:52 PM
sailingdog Umm....No, it wouldn't...
Quote:
Originally Posted by bljones View Post
Your trimaran wouldn't happen to be named "Brer Rabbit," would it?
07-09-2010 12:52 PM
CapTim
Quote:
Originally Posted by bljones View Post
Your trimaran wouldn't happen to be named "Brer Rabbit," would it?
wrong... wrong wrong wrong wrong wrong.


and so very funny.
07-09-2010 12:47 PM
bljones
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
I'd bed anything ...
Your trimaran wouldn't happen to be named "Brer Rabbit," would it?
07-09-2010 12:29 PM
sailingdog I'd bed anything that is going to be through-bolted with Butyl Tape...otherwise, a good polysulfide is in order.
07-09-2010 11:45 AM
mitiempo I wouldn't stain the teak as time will even the shades. Teak because of its oil content does not take to stain very well either.
I would second not using any silicone based bedding. Leaves a residue nothing, even silicone will stick to.
07-09-2010 10:43 AM
cormeum Regarding varnish, 5 coats is just a suggestion based on someone's experience. Over bare wood (interior) I do 1 coat of non-blushing epoxy and 4 coats of varnish. But as they say YMMV.

You may want to let your new piece of teak weather a bit rather than trying stains. Alternaitvely you could oil the whole thing which should even up the color.

Silicone caulks just generally don't work well on boats, especially for bedding hardware. Polysulfide caulks work better or in certain cases butyl tape. Since bedding hardware is a PITA, it's better to use the right material.
07-09-2010 10:30 AM
Tweegs
Woodwork.

Couple of things going on that Iíd like to get some input on. As promised, I dug around looking for answers before posting, but some of those answers brought up more questions.

First, I am refinishing the galley. I decided to use a spar urethane with UV protection on the interior wood. Lots of fading around the port lights led me in this direction. I read here that 5 coats are recommended, but I was wondering why 5? On the outdoor furniture Iíve made, 3 coats have been adequate. Varnish/poly doesnít build like lacquer does, 2 coats should provide enough UV protection, and the third coat leaves enough room in the finish to sand and buff out to a high gloss or satin. 5 coats just seems overkill to me, and Iím trying to understand the benefit as applied to interior wood. Iím not here to argue about it, there is a reason 5 coats is suggested, Iím just looking for someone to explain it.

Second, Iím working on the handrails and accent trim up on deck. The handrails were once varnished, but now most of the varnish is long gone, the now exposed teak was grey and uncared for. Iím not one to varnish teak, and with a little sanding and TLC, they are starting to regain their former glory. The accent trim below the handrails is another story.

The trim was too far gone to salvage, so I removed it and made new trim which left me with two new issues, the first being that I am going to have a color difference between the old and new wood. Without using a topcoat, stain or dye isnít an option, it wonít hold up. Semco seems to be the preferred product for coloring and sealing boat teak, but Iím wondering how well it will come off the gel coat should I happen to dribble.

The second issue involves bedding the new trim.

Iíve read:

ďUse a good-quality, marine-grade caulk from a recognized company when installing deck hardware. These products have UV and other inhibitors added that cheap, home-center products do not. Most sailors rely on 3M, Sikaflex, and LifeCaulk for these caulks. Be aware that there are three distinctly different marine caulking/bedding products on the market...Ē

But Iím having trouble with the UV and other inhibitors. Looking at a tube of 25 year, exterior grade, silicone based, household caulk, you would think this caulk would contain UV and other inhibitors given the warrantee. Deck hardware I fully understand wanting to bed with a high dollar caulk rated specifically for this purpose, but to use it on a piece of trim where the only load is in the amount of bend necessary to hold the curvature of the boat? Again, Iím looking for an explanation, rather than an argument.

 
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