|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|08-20-2010 12:08 PM|
I started to put my Thermarest on top of my foam cushions. As I get older I am less tolerant of thin foam cushions. I found the combination of the two pads is great. I like that I can stow the Thermarest when not in use since I sleep in the salon and I can use it for other activities. Last I checked they are reasonably priced.
|08-19-2010 08:47 PM|
|Julie303||Another way to increase comfort without increasing depth of the foam is to put in a Froli system. For about $250, I added these little springs under the V-berth and it's like sleeping on an innerspring mattress. They're like tinkertoys gone wild and only took me about an hour and a half to install; and that included doing it wrong the first time.|
|08-08-2010 01:31 PM|
paul, someone in the wetsuit industry clued me in some years ago. All "foams" are made one of two ways. Either they inject compressed gas (nitrogen) under pressure, and then release the pressure to allow the foam to fizz up in a mold, or they use "pancake batter" which fizzes up as it is heated in a mold.
The batter solidifies and cures to become the "foamed" rubber, either way. But using compressed nitrogen, which is chemically inert, is way way more expensive than using "pancake batter" which will bubble up from internal chemical reactions, literally just like baking a soda bread. Odds are the odors are from the various chemicals given off during the curing, and they are simply trapped by the plastic wrapper.
Some of the companies make a point about the non-toxicity of their foams, because you never really know what it is you are inhaling, up close, for eight hours every night, while a new mattress is outgassing. Another good reason to let it air out until you really can't smell anything from it.
The 3M #77 won't melt upholstery foams, it is designed for them. That's one of the materials normally used to assemble layers of foam mattresses. I'm sure there are others that are water-based and don't use petroleum solvents these days. Latex-based "cove base molding adhesive" from the hardware store also can work very well, it is a white paste designed to bond rubber/vinyl moldings to wall bases, but then you'll have to "butter" both pieces of foam in order to apply it. Water based, no solvent worries, but I'll keep using the 3M myself.
|08-07-2010 08:57 PM|
Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
I would check a good craft store (or even better would be an upholstery shop) and see what they recommend, you don't want to wind up melting the foam!
|08-06-2010 01:27 PM|
"I was thinking the spray headliner glue for cars...?"
I'd suggest 3M's #77 Sprayment, which is a permanent adhesive, or their headliner spray, yes. All of those sprays are "rubber cement" but some of the cheap stuff is not permanent, or releases after time and heat. Buy a brand name. Then let it air out, once the solvent kicks off there should be no toxicity problem.
The foam itself may need to air out for a week or longer anyway, to get rid of chemicals from the manufacturing.
|08-06-2010 12:38 PM|
I've decide that I can easily be comfy on the 6 in. The first 3 in is firm foam and then the second 3 in is the 5.3 lb memory foam...sleep on it last night in my living room...perfect...now I can double up the other 2 in and use it for my settee berth.
Now, my question is, I need to adhere one foam to the other...and i want to do that before I cut...what type of glue or adhesive would be best and the least toxic? I was thinking the spray headliner glue for cars...?
|07-28-2010 09:51 PM|
|07-28-2010 09:43 PM|
Originally Posted by miatapaul View Post
I like that is comes in 3' 3' and 2'...I might use 5" or 6" for the bed...and use the other elsewhere...A buddy hooked me up with a roll of beautiful white leather which will be the cover...I'll post some pictures when done.
|07-26-2010 02:09 PM|
|trailblazer1229||Home Depot and Lowes sells a product called mold control. It is used to mitigate small mold and mildew problems around the house. Once sprayed it also protects and coats against further contmaination. I have never used it on fabric or foam, but I have used it on wood. It gives a musty smell once sprayed, but when it dries, there is no more smell. Seems to work well enough.|
|07-26-2010 12:58 PM|
If you can still smell mildew, you still have LIVE mildew. Bleach is one of the few things that really kills it. Of course then you'll smell the bleach, and it is easy to use too much bleach. Make sure you rinse it well, if you can still smell bleach when you are done, it will still be in there attacking the foam.
Do not use ammonia--that attacks latex and breaks it down.
If there's someplace near you that does carpet cleaning in a store? They have machines that run the carpet (or the foam) through rollers with a steam bath, that's really effective at cleaning. And drying--which will prevent the mildew from restarting.
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