|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|07-29-2010 01:35 PM|
|mitiempo||No, you would monitor both batteries together without the ability to differentiate between them. The shunt measures all current going through it.|
|07-29-2010 01:32 PM|
|cvsheppard||What would happen if both house and starter battery were connected to the battery side of the shunt? Could you monitor either battery depending on where the battery switch was set?|
|07-29-2010 01:29 PM|
|cvsheppard||I guess I should say that I have a negative buss but it's located at the panel and not near the batteries or shunt.|
|07-29-2010 01:27 PM|
That is fine, really the same as using a bus. As long as there is nothing connected to the battery side of the shunt except the battery itself.
|07-29-2010 01:21 PM|
|cvsheppard||I reviewed my setup after reading this thread and seem to be in general compliance except that I have my starter battery negative attached to the same end of the shunt as the engine ground. I know I could have extended it straight to the engine but it seemed to serve the same purpose in this configuration. Does anyone see a problem with this setup?|
|07-29-2010 12:14 AM|
Thanks again everyone. I wired this up today and it at least appears to be working. I won't know until the charger decided the house battery needs charging. then I'll see if the charging voltage makes it over to the starter battery.
But the green light on the echo charger is on solid, so I expect its fine.
|07-27-2010 01:08 PM|
I can agree with that ... if that is the setup and the distance between batteries and engine block. I don't buy wiring from West Marine, I don't require 0/1 for starting circuit, and I don't have to run 8 feet. I made, at most, a 4 ft run w/ 4 gauge.
Certainly, if 8 ft is the run, 0/1 gauge is required, and a hefty bus bar is pre-existing that is the route to take. I didn't imagine his setup on what I thought I noticed was a 30ft boat would be very much different than mine ... short runs and minimal cabling requirements. But if you're talking Power Post instead of bus bar ... those surely are cheap. I thought we were talking bus bar, 4 gauge, and short runs.
I just prefer to consolidate grounds to the engine block best I can. With most noise originating from the engine and daisy chained grounding, I'm just worried about ground loops. I've done too many clever wiring runs in vehicles that I had to, in the end, really simplify to eliminate ground loops.
Then, sometimes ... just wire whatever way comes most readily and it'll work out the gate...
|07-27-2010 01:00 PM|
Originally Posted by mitiempo View Post
I'll still wire the echo charger negative after the shunt, move the alt wire to the house positive and then I'm done! Hm, I can probably even get this done before tonights race.
Thanks everyone, you were all a huge help!
|07-27-2010 12:40 PM|
As long as the shunt is the first connection after the house battery negative everything in or out of that battery will be monitored, shore charger, alternator, and any other sources. The negatives ultimately all have to end at the block, ideally in one place.
Wiring house negative AFTER THE SHUNT to start negative and then to the block from the start battery negative works.
|07-27-2010 12:24 PM|
I already have the negative bus installed and hooked up to the shunt anyhow. I just need to measure for and order cables to go from the neg of the start battery to the bus, and from the engine block to the bus. The existiong cable from the engine block to the start battery neg is too short by just a bit.
What would happen if I tie the negatives of the batteries together and leave the engine block directly on the starter battery neg post? I could still move the alternator line to the house battery. The downside I can see is that the charging from the alternator won't be monitored. Is there any other down side?
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