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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Engines > Diesel > Help! Leaking Injector Pump
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Diesel This is a forum dedicated to diesel engines and their applicable accessories.


Thread: Help! Leaking Injector Pump Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-31-2014 01:29 PM
erps
Re: Help! Leaking Injector Pump

Bob,

I couldn't read the Bosch number, but I have a number written down in my maintenance log. I don't recollect where I got the number, but I do keep track of part numbers that might mean something to someone in the know. This is the number I have:

0-414-173-998.

The Bosch pump is on a Volvo Penta MD-17C. When I google that number, I get a hit for a crossreference from a Volvo part number to the Bosch number.
03-30-2014 05:11 PM
erps
Re: Help! Leaking Injector Pump

Not with me. I'll go down to the boat tomorrow and see if I can get it.
03-30-2014 02:46 PM
rcaradimos
Re: Help! Leaking Injector Pump

Quote:
Originally Posted by erps View Post
rcaradimos,

I got the parts from Northland Diesel Service out of Bellingham WA. The part number on the receipt for the O-ring is 3410210007. The part number for the washers, 2916710602. Northland's telephone number is 360-676-1970. These folks have been in business for over 30 years and their business has grown. They have excellent customer service and their "injector pump" guy has been very helpful with advice in my past dealings with them.
Ray,
Do you have the Bosch pump # My Bosch is PFR 70A8 (I think) the plate is all scatched up. Thanks for the reply.
Bob
03-30-2014 01:06 PM
erps
Re: Help! Leaking Injector Pump

rcaradimos,

I got the parts from Northland Diesel Service out of Bellingham WA. The part number on the receipt for the O-ring is 3410210007. The part number for the washers, 2916710602. Northland's telephone number is 360-676-1970. These folks have been in business for over 30 years and their business has grown. They have excellent customer service and their "injector pump" guy has been very helpful with advice in my past dealings with them.
03-29-2014 09:34 PM
rcaradimos
Re: Help! Leaking Injector Pump

erps,

Please post the Bosch part #s for the delivery pump.
I have a leak on my Bukh DV20

Under the cap is the O-ring and a copper gasket that needs to be replaced. Here is a parts diagram. #18 and #15

Can't read the plate on the back of mine it looks like PFR 70A8

Thank you
Bob
06-15-2012 04:37 PM
erps
Re: Help! Leaking Injector Pump

Resurrecting on old thread, but I just recovered from a similar situation with my Volvo injector pump. I got lucky though, as my pump was a little easier to work on than Hartley's. My symtoms were:

Engine fires right off then slowly dies. Takes extended cranking to get engine to start. Our small pressure pump to our diesel heater was also losing it's prime. I suspected that we were losing our prime to the injector pump. Further examination showed that the top of the pump was wet with fuel after these hard starts, but hardly any fuel leaking while the engine ran. I think the combination of foamy fuel in the injector pump body was the cause of the fuel leaks on starts. Rather than pull out the whole pump, which had a linkage that I didn't have good access to, I decided to try and repair the leak with the pump in the boat. I consulted with a Bosch Dealer nearby who said it was common for these old pumps to start leaking.

I ordered the O-rings and some copper washers to see if I could fix the problem without removing the whole pump. They are numbers 18 and 15 in the parts diagram

Scrubbed top of injector pump with WD-40 and a tooth brush to clean it up. Removed fuel supply line to top of injector pump (17mm wrench). Removed injector lines off injectors and injector pump (17mm wrench) Removed fuel return line (10mm wrench), Remove oil filler cap assembly (it was in the way). Shove paper towel down the hole uncovered by the oil filler cap to keep crap from gettin' in the gears.

Remove a little keeper dealy-bob between two of the injector delivery nozzle caps. I think this dealy-bob keeps the center cap from turning when you're pulling off the injector lines because you can't get a wrench on it to hold it. 19mm deep well socket to remove each fuel delivery valve cap. There is a spring under there, but it doesn't go boing when you pull the cap. Under the cap is the O-ring and a copper gasket that needs to be replaced. Here is a parts diagram. Takes about 1.5 hours to disassemble and clean. Takes about an hour to put it back together.

Put it together this morning and it fired right up. No leaks. Hurray, we're going out to Hope Island to enjoy this weather while it lasts.

09-26-2010 09:14 PM
tdw
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hartley18 View Post
Thanks for the tip! I'll have a look too..

It seems to me that it might be an easier job to replace the entire filter unit after a few years of service. They just don't make 'em like they used to!
Which means you will probably throw away a well made solidly built old filter body and replace it with a newer less well made shoddy bit of tat.

Cameron, I reckon the body itself is going to be fine, we have simply not replaced enough of the gaskets and o-rings. Metal tap may well be a plus but given that our plastic tap is probably 20 years old already, it has given pretty good service.

I think I'll try and chase up new tap. If I can find a metal one then well and good but failing that a new plastic one will probably suffice. Just make sure that everytime we change filter we renew all the gaskets. Easy peasy.

btw...I found this pic. It shows the knurled knob I spoke of but it calls it a 'primer' not a fuel cut off, so I'm back to being confused. Bowl on ours is as per yours, not slab sided but dished.

09-26-2010 07:41 PM
Classic30
Quote:
Originally Posted by St Anna View Post
Whitworths were advertising the whole units at half price a little while ago.
Thanks for the tip! I'll have a look too..

It seems to me that it might be an easier job to replace the entire filter unit after a few years of service. They just don't make 'em like they used to!
09-26-2010 06:12 PM
tdw
Quote:
Originally Posted by ffiill View Post
Ring spanners? To remove an injector first you will need an injector(ring) spanner with a slot in it to fit over injector pipe/s.
Once you have removed pipe then depends on whether injector is scewed in like a spark plug for which you will need a long reach socket of right size. More commonly injector is held by a threaded set screw either side of body and then you still may need a socket to free it from the hole in which it fits as a very fine tolerance (tight)fit.
Certainly over here as in Oz you always get a far better deal on such items from your local DIY motorists store or ebay or Trademe in NZ..
Ffill.......Just to clear up possible confusion. I was thinking more that I'd need to remove the covering nut (I don't know what its called) so that I could get the fuel lines out of the way to access the manifold. I wasn't intending on removing the injectors themselves. As it turns out however having had a good look on Saturday morning the manifold will come off without the need to touch the injectors at all. As for where to buy engine bits and pieces ? You are dead right. I use Repco shops for tools and the like, largely because there is an outlet close by both my home and my office.

StAnna...thanks mate. hmm..Whitworths web site seems to be down. When its back up I'll have a look see.
09-26-2010 08:37 AM
ffiill Ring spanners? To remove an injector first you will need an injector(ring) spanner with a slot in it to fit over injector pipe/s.
Once you have removed pipe then depends on whether injector is scewed in like a spark plug for which you will need a long reach socket of right size. More commonly injector is held by a threaded set screw either side of body and then you still may need a socket to free it from the hole in which it fits as a very fine tolerance (tight)fit.
Certainly over here as in Oz you always get a far better deal on such items from your local DIY motorists store or ebay or Trademe in NZ..
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