|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|07-30-2010 08:33 AM|
Generally 'quality' foam brushes work well when using HT; although, high quality 'soft' large artists brushes work best followed by lightly and quickly 'tipping' with a dry foam brush. Laydown should be the same as varnish - full brush pulled in one direction only and at a low angle with light pressure, just like varnish you want it to 'flow'. For superb flow-out and leveling on the final clear coat, the use of a Preval type self-contained spray-bottle is ultimately the 'very best'. Preval Paint Spray Gun Kit
Acetone or Lacquer thinner, etc. are 'verboten' when using HT, so is the prior use of any 'stripper' unless you are willing to wait an immense amount of time for the MEK, etc. to outgas away.
|07-29-2010 10:17 PM|
|bljones||What kind of brushes were you using? Did you stir or shake the finishing material before using it? did you clear your brushes prior to each application? did you work the finish back and forth, or lay it down in one direction? did you wipe down the teak with acetone or laquer thinner immediately before laying on your finish?|
|07-29-2010 08:42 PM|
Holy Toledo Batman, there is a lot of teak on your boat! Gorgeous but a bit of work, eh?
Great suggestions on the use of HT by RichH above. I had a similar problem using Bristol Finish (BF) on a much smaller project (grab rails) for my boat - the dreaded bubbling. Subsequent sanding and re-coating seemed to take care of it.
I second or third the advice of only using an oil based product like teak oil or the Semco mentioned on your decks or nothing at all. Most regular finishes can get quite slippery when wet.
Cetol (Interlux) recently came out with a new flavor called 'Natural Teak' which I have used on most of my exterior teak (not nearly as much as yours) with positive results with mostly annual maintenance. I'm quite sure it is cheaper, looks more like varnish then Cetol 'Marine' and does not have the 'bubble up' issue that some of the eurathane products seem to have like HT and BF.
I hope that HT works out for you with RichH's advice.
"a three hour tour, a three hour tour..."
|07-29-2010 06:05 PM|
"Rich H- If I understand you correctly, less catalyst will make the batch kick faster? So, you recommend less catalyst for verticals, which will speed up the 'kick"?"
Yup, as strange as it seems, less catalyst (and less 'flow fluid") will speed up the 'kick'.
As stated before DONT WORRY ABOUT THE BUBBLES ON THE FIRST COAT .... the successive coats will fill in the 'crater' left by the 'bubbles'. Varnish can also do this 'bubbles' / outgassing; just be sure to lay on THICK (on the 'horizontals') and the craters will 'fill' and level out. Promise.
Note: if you HAVE to flat sand because the 'bubbles' are showing through successive coats, do not sand the 'base coat' but add a few more 'clear' coats and flat sand the clear (only) coats .... if you see 'yellow' in the sanding water, STOP, as you are now sanding down into the base coat.
If you have a LOT of 'craters' from all the bubbling of the first coating ON (hot) HORIZONTALS, let cure a bit for several HOURS, then apply more but use a polyethylene trowel and PUSH new base, etc. INTO the craters. The trowel will remove the new and will help to fill the 'craters' ...... just like how one works gelcoat on a male plug mold. Ditto for 'leveling' boo-boos on the large vertical surfaces; for 'verticals' use LESS 'flow fluid'.
|07-29-2010 05:30 PM|
|mrybas||I did some HT on bare wood around the cockpit coaming around 10pm......no bubbles. It must be a sun/heat related problem.|
|07-26-2010 06:28 PM|
Well I thought today would was "The Day" to start laying Honey Teak on all of the teak attached to the boat. We (4 guys all with some experience and one who is a woodworker for a living) started laying on Honey at a little before 8 AM. It was around 70 deg when we began laying on Honey and the forecast called for a high in the mid 80's with low humidity (a cool day compared to the recent weather). It took about 40 mins to make a lap around the boat working in teams of two (one on deck, one on scaffolding x port/starboard). By the time we started to lay on the second coat (wet on wet, 40 mins after the first coat) a few bubbles started to show up. Applying the second coat knocked down the first coat bubbles.....but by the time the second coat was finished bubbles started to really show up . We knocked all of these bubbles down by finger-tip coated in Flow Fluid (HT thinner), trying to work the material down into the open pores. However, the bubbles just kept coming up. Now I have literally thousands of bubbles! We decided to call it quits and let the HT cure, sand the bubbles off, and try again another day. I have the feeling that we're going to be fighting bubbles all over again on the next coat. Any thoughts????
Rich H- If I understand you correctly, less catalyst will make the batch kick faster? So, you recommend less catalyst for verticals, which will speed up the 'kick"?
|07-12-2010 11:23 PM|
Originally Posted by mrybas View Post
I use a mix of 1/3 Semco goldtone, 1/3 Teak Wonder and 1/3 Thompsons waterseal --- doesnt make the deck slippery when wet. Two coats will last 6 months if you keep the green water off the deck. Only problem with sealers is that they eventually transfer to the soles of your deck shoes and makes them slippery. Occasional sand paper fixes the shoes.
|07-12-2010 11:17 PM|
Originally Posted by mrybas View Post
The only real problems with HT are erroneously putting on the base coats too thin and the potential to sag/run on the verticals. The worst potential problem is a rapidly rising very high humidity will almost totally stop the cure; in that rare occurance dont touch the coating but WAIT allow to start to cure, then 'slop' on another coat as soon as the humidity goes back down ... will aid in the curing/'kicking' of the 'bad' coat. This is a very rare occurrence but can happen.
Be aware that it may take a few weeks for HT to 'fade' into a proper clear amber hue .... it may initially look somewhat like 'butterscotch' (or worse, may look like butt-ugly cetol) for the first few weeks, but will quickly fade to a proper oil based varnish look.
As like a primo varnish job, you can after a month or two of curing, flat sand with 2000 or 3000 grit W&D and then either (bare hand) hand-rub with rottenstone & water or wet-sand and POWER BUFF (w/foam knobby pad) with 3M finese-it, then 3M Perfect-it .... and will then make a brand new Hinckley blush with envy. The heat from hand-rubbing, etc. is what produces that dazzling iridescent GLOW under varnish and will remove almost all the 'dust, etc. imperfections'.
Caution: dont sand down the 'base coat' unless *absolutely* necessary ... its the UV filters in the base coat that allows HT to last for 10-12+ years and you want LOTS of intact UV filter to prolong the life of the coating system.
Gang finishing .... nah, do it yourself until you experience and find the learning curve. HT is a FAST finish to apply. Once you get the 'hang', you'll be doing wet-on-wet in no time .... with the exception of the damn verticals and thats a problem with varnish too.
|07-12-2010 09:35 PM|
|cormeum||I tried Bristol Finish (similar 2 part as HT) and went back to Epifanes.|
|07-12-2010 09:33 PM|
Originally Posted by DwayneSpeer View Post
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|