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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Electrical Systems > Wiring Question
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Thread: Wiring Question Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-18-2010 01:40 PM
mitiempo Not likely unless you reversed the positive and negative wires. If your wiring is that old and corroded best to use new tinned wire to hook up the stereo.
An inexpensive multimeter would be useful as well. Digital ones are available for about $15 now. When checking wires with the digital for voltage if the leads are reversed you will get a negative number. Very easy to use for troubleshooting and checking before attaching the wires.

Was the red wire positive? On an old boat you can't be sure without checking.
08-18-2010 01:38 PM
hellosailor "We did discover that our power wire (red) was corroded. Is it possible that our 32 year old wiring fried the units"
Not likely that you fried the stereos. Old wiring tends to fail, as in provide no voltage at all. to fry them, you'd have to provide excess voltage (regulator failure on the alternator or 17V from solar panels) or reverse voltage.
If you want to be sure, run some alligator wires (buy a long set from Radio Shack) from the battery directly to the radio power leads. Stereos often use two positive leads, typically red and orange for the main power and the memory power and you may need to power up BOTH for it to work. And then another wire, black or yellow, for the negative aka "ground" lead.
Then there are the speakers...if it uses four that's eight more wires and if you only test one, and the fade/balance knob is set to the other side you get the sounds of silence.
On a boat that old it probably pays to run new power wires (hot and ground) all the way from the panel to the radio, assuming you've got good power into the panel. No telling what a PO did, like creatively splice in lamp cord with a twist and tape in some hidden place.
Alligator wires: A good long-term investment of ten bucks.
08-18-2010 01:14 PM
Leggaseastwind
New To sailnet

I'm trying to wire a new Sony marine stereo in my '78 Oday 25. We tried installing a stereo a month ago and didn't get any power to the unit at all. I brought the stereo back and got a different one. Hooked that one up last night and got power to the unit but it was very flaky. We did discover that our power wire (red) was corroded. Is it possible that our 32 year old wiring fried the units
08-06-2010 11:11 PM
Stu Jackson
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimMcGee View Post

When I get to the boat this weekend I'm going to check my breaker panel and determine if Catalina installed a hot bus (always hot regardless of battery switch position). If not I'll add one as this will be a cleaner installation than tying multiple lines to a battery terminal.
Jim, as far as I know they didn't. The DP is served from the output of the 1-2-B switch, the Common post. That's why all DC stuff turns off when you turn the 1-2-B switch to OFF.

If you want further information, go find your boat manual which should have a wiring diagram. If you don't have one, go to the C30 Association website, International Catalina 30 Association and you should be able to find one.
08-05-2010 05:50 PM
JimMcGee
Update

I've modified my installation a bit based on feedback I received here and elsewhere.

I'll be staying with a 5 amp circuit, but changing from a slow blow to a standard inline Anchor fuse for exactly the reason that Bill mentioned -- the breaker will be slower to trip and I want to protect the TV.

I'll keep the breaker at the 12v outlet so I can turn off power to the outlet for troubleshooting or if I need to conserve power.

When I get to the boat this weekend I'm going to check my breaker panel and determine if Catalina installed a hot bus (always hot regardless of battery switch position). If not I'll add one as this will be a cleaner installation than tying multiple lines to a battery terminal.

I should be OK with the current draw from the spotlight. It's a standard West Marine light with a 12v plug that was previously used on a 5 amp circuit.

Thanks guys,
Jim
08-03-2010 11:38 AM
mitiempo The fuse near the battery should be larger than 5 amps. This will solve the problem of the fuse going before the breaker. As well, you don't install a fuse in that location to protect the tv, but to protect the wire itself.
08-03-2010 09:32 AM
btrayfors Jim,

You said you want the (5A) breaker to blow before the (5A) fuse. It won't. Breakers will tolerate significantly higher amperage than their rating for awhile before blowing.

Another question: how much does the spotlight draw? Maybe more than 5A!

Options include, inter alia, putting a larger fuse or breaker near the battery on the line to feed the outlet, and putting just a switch at the outlet. Then, you'd want a fuse sized for the DVD/TV in the line or cigarette lighter plug to the TV.

I think I'd use a 15A fuse or breaker near the battery, use AWG12/2 marine wire to the outlet, and install a healthy-sized toggle switch at the outlet if you want to switch it. Then, just run the "constant on" wire to the hot side of the switch, not all the way back to the battery, with an appropriate (small) in-line safety fuse.

JMO,

Bill
08-03-2010 07:23 AM
JimMcGee Brian,
Thanks, my biggest concern is safety, and it sounds like I'm OK with this approach.

Thanks,
Jim
08-02-2010 08:07 PM
mitiempo In that case it should be ok. The tvs that I have had problems with were the household types with a separate power supply between the wall plug and the tv. Several manufacturers cautioned about plugging this type into a 12 volt battery system. Sharp and Sony specifically. I used to sell and install audio/video equipment.
08-02-2010 06:18 PM
JimMcGee Hmm, now you've got me thinking.

Since the TV is designed as a 12v model that can run off a cigarette adapter I assumed its internal power supply would allow it to run on a range of voltages (say 11 to 14 volts) the way a laptop's will.

The TV is sold for trucks, RVs and boats.
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