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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > 16' Floor and Deck Replacement. Advice Please!
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Thread: 16' Floor and Deck Replacement. Advice Please! Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-07-2010 07:03 PM
DwayneSpeer
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
I would epoxy saturate all the sides of the plywood, regardless of whether it is marine ply or not. Plywood, if allowed to get wet, will ROT, regardless of what kind it is.
While it certainly is a good idea to seal the edges of any plywood as an extra precaution, marine grade plywood is far less susceptible to rot as it is specially treated to prevent rot. That's one of the reasons it is far more expensive. It is also made up of more and thinner plys and waterproof glue.
08-06-2010 05:40 PM
LandLocked66c Man, that's gonna be a JOB!

Before you start cutting, drill a few holes in discreet places and see what you get. If it is cored it's better to peel up as big of pieces as you can so that it can be put back again. Saves some swearing in the end!
08-06-2010 04:08 PM
MIeagle



Landlocked: I'm not sure if the sole is cored or not. I plan on beginning to cut it out sometime in the next couple weeks and will then see what's under the sole.
08-06-2010 03:47 PM
sailingdog I would epoxy saturate all the sides of the plywood, regardless of whether it is marine ply or not. Plywood, if allowed to get wet, will ROT, regardless of what kind it is.

As for cutting the fiberglass tape and removing the existing floor, use a fein multimaster or similar oscillating blade tool to cut along the edge. Most of these tools have a flush cut blade that will allow you to cut right along the hull side and leave a very, very clean cut.

You also don't want to have the plywood right up against the inner side of the hull. Ideally, you'd use fiberglass tape and thickened epoxy to tab the sole to the hull, but chances are very likely you'll need to rest the sole on stringers and floors and only tab the top of the sole to the hull—stringers run longitudinally along the hull and floors run athwartships the hull.

Tabbing is only generally strong in resisting forces in one direction... tabbing along the top of a cockpit sole will resist downward forces well but doesn't do as well if the forces are upwards. This is why bulkheads are typically tabbed on both sides but a sole is only tabbed on one in many cases.
08-06-2010 03:03 PM
LandLocked66c
Quote:
Originally Posted by MIeagle View Post
LandLocked, I really appreciate that thread you posted. I will really be needing some epoxy then won't I? How many coats did you do on that plywood? Also did you put glass cloth or anything on the other side? Also, I would like to try for a darker wood so is there any stains you would suggest using? Thanks
Not sure how your sole is built, but in my case my sole was cored with plywood. It was not marine grade so I did not replace it with marine grade. A gamble, perhaps, but i'm not planning on my boat ever being full of water and not tended to properly. Not only that, but my boat will never be a high dollar boat so I wasn't interested in investing more than what was needed to make it right.

When installing the sole all of the plywood was wetted with epoxy first, then we mixed thickened epoxy to the consistency of catsup and did the final install of the old glass sole. Then I chamfered my cuts and glassed them.

Post some more pics of what you have ahead of you, is your sole cored?
08-06-2010 01:40 PM
MIeagle Alright thanks a lot Dwayne. Your last post answered a lot of my questions. I will be looking into the foam you suggested. You would consider that a better alternative than the 2 part foam that is poured then expands? I agree with your attitude of getting the right stuff and doing this right the first time, I just am beginning this type of work and am just learning what the right stuff is. Thanks again to all the replies.
08-06-2010 11:31 AM
DwayneSpeer Are you absolutely, positively sure that noodles won't get water soaked after a while? I'm not. They weren't designed for long term immersion. Use the right stuff or don't bother.

Half inch ply is OK if it's properly supported; stringers no less than 16 inches apart.

Don't try to glue it down. Use the fiberglass tape and epoxy. It's far more stable.

You don't need to seal the underside with epoxy if you use marine grade plywood. The only need to seal the top side is to make it look good and prevent splinters. If you don't use marine grade ply then you will need to seal the crap out of all sides and do a lot of praying that it lasts more than a few months.

Use any good stain that you want to.
08-05-2010 05:23 PM
MIeagle Dwayne, is there any specific reason you wouldn't use the noodles for flotation or is it just more of a risky proposition?

LandLocked, I really appreciate that thread you posted. I will really be needing some epoxy then won't I? How many coats did you do on that plywood? Also did you put glass cloth or anything on the other side? Also, I would like to try for a darker wood so is there any stains you would suggest using? Thanks
08-05-2010 05:07 PM
MIeagle Thanks for the replies so far. This is all helping a lot. Is it safe to use 1/2" for the new sole and probably replacing the stringers in the floor? How many coats of epoxy would I use on the new sole? Also when placing the new wood sole in the boat, would I want to use fiberglass tape along the edge again or would a good bead of fast cure 5200 be sufficient.

Some info: the boat won't be spending long periods in the water or even uncovered. Also I bought it for just a few hundred dollars and its about 40 years old, so I'm willing to do work that has potential to backfire at least for the learning experience.
Thanks again!
08-05-2010 04:46 PM
LandLocked66c Here's a link to the sole work I did on my Oday. It's not super descriptive, but may help you. It's a little work, but anything can be done with enough time and money. I can tell you that epoxy is pretty expensive. I used most of a gallon doing just that small section of sole.

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-m...has-begun.html
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