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  Topic Review (Newest First)
10-10-2010 06:35 AM
NICHOLSON58 Check the compression. If it is in spec you will probably not need a re-build.

Next look for the air bleed. If the injectors are working in air you will wear out the starter before it pops. I don't know your's but mine has both manual and electric pre-charge pumps. This was sill not sufficient to overcome a tiny leak in an induction fitting - nothing but air. Open the fuel rail at each injector and pump out all air.

Diesel is pretty simple in the end. Fuel + Compression = bang. Make sure you know where the fuel/engine kill is or you will not be able to stop it. (Experience)
10-05-2010 02:03 AM
Originally Posted by NCC320 View Post
1) If you don't know how it's supposed to operate, then why would you even think about rebuilding it yourself?
I have to agree.

A self confessed diesel dummy contemplating doing his own diesel engine rebuild is an absolute contradiction in terms.

Good luck, to be sure.
10-04-2010 02:49 PM
09-20-2010 06:38 PM
Originally Posted by anotherfng View Post
Pretty sure im gonna have to pull it and rebuild. I kind of figured i would when i bought the boat, but i guess i just hoped it would be easier. Any help or guidance on where to get rebuild kits
1) If you don't know how it's supposed to operate, then why would you even think about rebuilding it yourself? Before you rebuild, in my opinion, you should know how it works and have manuals with the various clearance specs, etc. as well at the parts for the engine.

2) Get the manuals and books that have been suggested. But to save a lot of agony, why don't you get an experienced diesel mechanic to take a look at it? It might be money well spent and you'll learn a lot from talking with him.
09-20-2010 03:21 PM
eightpoint3 Lots of good background info for another diesel lightweight!

08-25-2010 11:52 PM
cardiacpaul Diesels actually need "less" to run that a gas engine.
1)fuel (at the right time)
3) air, lots of air.
ok, lets make some assumptions.
Lets assume you've used fresh diesel, and changed the fuel filters.
Lets also assume, you bled the system, and used the "manual engine primer" might be a rubber squeezie thing in the fuel line, or, a lever mounted on the fuel pump.

Lets also assume you have flowing fuel. (the fuel valve open?) supply is able to be pumped via pressure to the injector, so check and make sure you're getting fuel past the pump.

because the wd-40 test kinda sorta worked ( a couple of firings....IS working)

lets continue down that path.
stop at a truckstop or auto supply, buy some starting fluid.
squirt a LITTLE. no more than a pfft, pfft. Dear god don't treat it like your wife and her white rain, lots of metal bits will come unattached in a violent fashion.
If you have compression, the motor SHOULD fire and run a second or two, or longer if the fuel supply is flowing well.
If it dies, repeat. (remember, just a "pfft" of starting fluid.)
It could take a number of these starts until she fires off on her own and continues to run. The engine will not like starting fluid. Its a violent eruption. Again, don't use too much.

If after a half a dozen of these attempts, and its still hasn't wheezed along, you need to look at other places.

Look first at air supply, is it free flowing? or is there a shut off plate under the aircleaner (on some engines, this is how you shut them down, by cutting off the air supply)

Then look at the fuel supply circuit.
Is fuel getting ... first to the fuel pump.
If so, is fuel getting out of the fuel pump and up to the injector. (unfasten the line to the injector,) fuel should spurt out of that line. when you're turning over the engine. If not have the pump checked.
If so, then, remover the injector, have it checked.

Theres no logical reason to rebuild a motor that doesn't need it.

the front main seal should be able to be replaced in situ. Worry about that after you get it running. It may "loosen" and seal after it gets some warm oil next to it for awhile.

"cold start lever"
this allows some of the compression to escape in cooler ambient weather. if the ambient is say, over 60F, leave it closed. (have a strong battery and make sure you don't work the starter too hard.)

This "should" help.
08-25-2010 08:32 PM
crossbowme Marine leisure engines - Marine leisure engines : Volvo Penta

Go to this site and they have all the owner, operator and parts manuals for VP. I tried to attach the MD5 manuals to this email but couldn't figure out how to do it. They have trouble shooting sections, also. Beats buying anything! If they don't work, buy Nigel. I have them all and VP is easier to use.
08-05-2010 07:51 PM
diesel dummy

Not sure! There are two mechanical levers, and an electrical switch on the instrument panel, plus the key. Nothing is labeled and I dont know what any of them are for.
08-05-2010 07:33 PM
dhays I'm very ignorant about diesels. The extent of my experience is owning a Mercedes years ago, and the Universal 21 in my Catalina 36.

One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet, does your engine have a glow-plug pre-heat? In the two engines that I've used, both required the glow-plugs to be pre-heated for 10-15 seconds in order for the engine to start. If this didn't happen, the engine would never start.

08-05-2010 07:14 PM
diesel dummy

I tried the WD40 thing and the motor changed noise and smoked a little with some extended cranking and even seemed to try to start once but, just petered out after about 3 seconds. I have blead eveywhere there seems to be to bleed, but after reading some posts i guess there are particular ways to bleed each engine. I am at a loss, hence the title diesel dummy. Thats why i am leaning towards a rebuild, cause it would force me to learn about this engine and after im done, ill know what i have. dont get me wrong if in the meantime some of your very helpful responses works and she fires up and runs like a top, im sure ill be more than happy to put off the rebuild. I continue to appreciate all of your imput!
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