Only sure way to know is to remove the bolts and carefully inspect each hole to look for core. If wet and black: hmmm -- options include cutting back and rebuilding dry core. If core is OK: pot with epoxy using the approaches mentioned below and rebuild with backing plates. In addition to a backing plate, some also add a stainless plate under the feet of the stanchion on the deck to spread leverage over a larger portion of the deck, unless the stanchion base is already has a good-sized footprint.
08-20-2010 01:30 PM
If the 303 is like my 323, the hull-to-deck joint is based on an inward flange. The deck is cored, but not all the way to the edge where its thickness tapers, so some of the holes are thru deck that is not cored. Some holes pass thru core on the border between cored and uncored deck, so you have to seal anyway. Just don't expect to be able to dig out core material on all sides of some holes. Let's just say that the bent nail or sharpened hex key technique doesn't work so well with some of these holes. I learned that a 1/2 HP drill can generate enough force to rip itself out of your hands. It's too bad Pearson couldn't make that thinner part of the deck wide enough for the stanchion bases to go over uncored deck!
08-20-2010 08:17 AM
Also, don't forget to use a decent backing plate. Lifeline stanchions give the bolts a lot of leverage to tear at the deck with, and if not backed properly, can really cause damage...