|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-11-2009 10:51 PM|
|JewelledJester||also just to let you know watch the post date in the upper left side of the post, most of this discussion happened two years ago. Good luck with your motor search|
|05-11-2009 10:46 PM|
|JewelledJester||We pushed a 25ft Coronado around all last summer with a new merc 9.9 4 stroke. Didn't have any problems, and that was with the stock prop, I did however purchase a new prop that had less pitch but never put it on. Since a Hunter 320 was purchased this spring, I now have a new merc. prop for cheap.|
|05-09-2009 10:52 PM|
[QUOTE=bdevries;63700]I went out to a marina to look at a 1978 Hunter 25 and absolutely loved it. The boat seems to be in amazing condition but has two things I am not sure how to handle:
There is no engine - Can anyone provide any links or advice about what horsepower outboard would be the minimum on a boat like this?
There is a crack in the paint all the way around the top of the keel where the metal and fiberglass meet. It seems like this would be normal - but I would feel alot more at ease to have some way to back up that assumption.
Any advice on these issues or Hunter 25s in general would be very much appreciated.
cdwig40 I owned a 78 Hunter 25 and loved it. The engine that came with it was a 6 hp Evenrude long shaft. Plenty of power and easy on fuel. I think you will be happy with it.
|04-30-2008 03:29 AM|
|Gralex||Sure the post might be a bit old, but I am asking myself the very same question right now and the discussion was still useful. Thanks.|
|04-11-2007 10:36 AM|
|SailinJay||Perhaps the OP has resolved his issues, one way or another, given that his post was nearly 10 months ago, and there was no further discussion.|
|04-09-2007 03:23 PM|
I have a 1982 Hunter 25' which I race/cruise and love. Fast, solid boat! However, nobody could pay me to own a new Hunter 25'. Poor construction and more for a housewife to putter around in.
Two great questions! I myself just bought a Mercury 9.9. This is PLENTY of engine. I almost went 6hp, but if you are caught in a storm you will want that little extra. Do not go any higher! The dry weight is 93lbs. My old 9.9 was 78...I believe. I was a little concerned to I put new bolts/lock nuts along with very large washers, along with another set of washers to offset the weight (Hunter only puts 4 bolts with 4 little washers. I was totally not comfortable with this.) The only problem is there is a gas tank shelf and you have squeeze between into the bilge to get to the lower two bolts. It was very uncomfortable to do, but my mind is totally at ease now. I also made a new engine mount out of 3 pieces of 3/4" oak ply (gorilla glued it, sanded and varnished it with 3 coats of man-o-war high gloss. Looks great!
Now...more important, the crack in the keel. It is normal to have what may look like a seperation. The question is, are there water stains that look like leaks? If not you might be halfway home. Second, go onboard and lift up the bilge board in the main salon. You will see, I believe 4 keel bolts. If they are rusted to hell then move on to your next possible purchase. Otherwise, throw a coat of ablative paint and set sail. You might notice that water will fill that bilge where the keel bolts are. Don't worry, that is normal. That is coming from the percperation or other areas of the boat, but settles there because it is the lowest point of the hull.
|06-13-2006 07:02 PM|
|sailingdog||Also, might want to have the surveyor double check the keel bolts, and the hull-keel join.|
|06-13-2006 03:25 PM|
Because of tariffs, you'll often find a 9.9hp motor rather than a 10hp motor. And that's plenty of motor for your boat--but you want a LONG SHAFT engine so the prop stays below the waterline as your boat hobbyhorses in rough water. Long shaft engines are less common. The prop should also be matched for a sailboat (slow than powerboats) so do a little asking when you shop, don't assume they are all the same.
Because the weight of the engine will be all the way at the end of the lever arm, you also will be better off with the lightest engine you can find. Don't fret over five pounds, but if there is a 20-40 pound difference, invest in the lighter engine if everything else (except the price
Many boats have a slight crack between the hull and keel, just from production not being perfect and fairing not being perfect. If the keel bolts are solid, and there is no sign of damage, it probably is normal. Some brands like C&C are known the "the C&C smile" a perpetual crack at that point because they are built light for racing and the keels often wiggle just enough to keep that crack in the paint.
When in doubt...as others have said, get a survey. And consider asking the past owner to write on the bill of sale "no known groundings or known keel damage", or similar words. If he gets antsy about that...odds are he knows there was a problem.
|06-13-2006 01:35 PM|
|camaraderie||I'd be more concerned about the crack "in the paint" where the keel meets the hull. I'd get out there with some sandpaper and make sure the keel/hull joint isn't compromised or you may buy a problem that costs a lot more than an engine to fix. Better yet, have a survey done.|
|06-13-2006 11:36 AM|
|Sailormon6||Six horsepower would be plenty on an inland lake, but if you're going to sail Lake Michigan, I'd suggest an 8-10 horsepower with a shaft that is as long as you can find. The 8 should push the boat to hull speed (with power to spare) even against strong chop. When the conditions are such that 8-10 horsepower isn't enough (somewhere around 30 mph winds), the Hunter should probably be in it's slip. In those conditions, fifteen horsepower won't help.|
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