|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|11-02-2010 07:45 PM|
Originally Posted by Stillraining View Post
At start up there was an initial draw of 2-3 amps for less than a minute and then during the ignition period it was 4.5 - 5.5 amps which took app. two or three minutes. During ignition I had the rheostat? set at "2" (1-6 range).
After ignition it dropped to 1.3-4 amps while set at "2". I dropped it to the lowest setting and it was drawing .8 amps, at "1" 1.1 amps, "4" 1.9 amps, "6+" (highest) 2.5 amps.
We normally run it between 2 and 3 during the winter when temps are generally 35-45F and it keeps us toasty.
|11-02-2010 01:49 PM|
Here is what we know right now:
Highway #2 diesel fuels have been regulated for several years concerning sulfur content, with ultra low sulfur (>15ppm) being mandated. This sulfur level is supposed to have been adopted in full by last July for marine diesel #2at the dockside, but there may remain supplies until late 2010.
We are not aware of any issues facing small diesel fired marine furnaces of any brand as a result of current or future diesel sulfur levels. There is some improvement to the smell of lower sulfur diesel as a liquid, nothing appreciable in terms of exhaust smell, since correctly running furnaces should have no significant smoke or smell once they are up and running.
We do not see any reason to seek out highway fuel for your Wallas products any longer, since the marine fuel sulfur levels are now supposed to meet the ultra low standard that has been on highway for many years now. This should mean that smell concerns about the liquid fuel are no longer warranted.
Biodiesel content in highway fuels will vary from location to location. Highway fuels are typically limited to 10% biodiesel (AKA B10) and this number could go higher, depending on legislation. Marine fuels also vary in their biodiesel content from location to location with a limit around 10% currently, due in part to the limits allowed by diesel engine manufacturers.
While Wallas products are not intended for use with pure biodiesel, we know there are many in the field using the diesel/bio fuel hybrids showing up at the pumps and we can't associate any problems in our products as a result of diesel up to a B10 rating.
One of the key elements involved with using biofuels, both biodiesel and gasoline with ethanol is that these fuels do not tend to be as stable as pure diesel or pure gasoline. In gasoline, the ethanol component can convert to water over time and the bio component of biodiesel also will break down if unused. These characteristics can cause problems for diesel and gasoline engines respectively.
Whether old biodiesel at the B10 rating and below will cause problems for diesel boat furnaces and heaters remains to be seen, however we can't trace any of these problems into Wallas products so far. It is much more likely that old biodiesel might cause a problem for diesel engines, particularly modern ones with very high injection pressures.
The following fuels represent the only fuels we recommend for use in Wallas diesel products: #2 diesel, both on and off highway (includes marine), #1 diesel (home heating oil), kerosene, JP4 (kerosene turboprop aircraft fuel) and Klean Heat.
Doug at Scan
|11-01-2010 07:51 PM|
You are correct in that heating fuel and offroad are the same per say, they "should/could" have more sulfur than the road fuels.......please note, I said should and or could! In reality, many times the offroad, or marina purchased or home fuels will be one of the low sulfur but with the red dye in it so if it is put into an over the road rig, the dye will stay visible to something like 1 part per million or lower. Then you get BIG fines. It should burn the same.
Altho, I will admit, one would have to wonder how well the dye is able to burn itself, hence why some of the red dyed fuels may be causing some issues with different furnaces.
I doubt alchohol will be introduced to diesel fuels, as I am recalling, they do not mix well, but bio diesel does get put in to some diesel mixes, Which could cause some issues in some burners. I have not heard of any, but I would not throw that possiblity out.
|11-01-2010 02:05 PM|
|jrd22||I have always understood that offroad (dyed), highway, and #2 heating oil are all the same product. Is dyed diesel not the same low sulphur sold for highway use? I have bought diesel in a variety of places and haven't had any issues with the furnace at all.|
|11-01-2010 01:51 PM|
We are contemplating a small furnace for our 34 footer. Duct space is very tight. We will likely have to go with the smaller of their forced air furnaces, like the 30D.
In the last year though, I have identified a new problem that's coming from out of left field (there's a corn-sourced alcohol pun there somewhere...).
I now find that while I can still find "off road" diesel at marina fuel docks for the near future, there is no assurance that this fuel will stay on the market.
Like the zero choice we have for gasoline and diesel for road use, our marine fuels may also soon end up with quite a potent witches' brew of chemical additives and alcohol.
Since my boating use involves filling a tank about twice a year and then letting the diesel sit there for up to six months, I am concerned about how well this mixture will stay "mixed". I already read stories of diesel furnaces (no particular brand) with burners clogged with odd soot or whatever byproducts that arrived with the new fuel blends.
I hope that an engineer from ScanMarine can give us customers some guidance. After paying well over 2K for a little box of furnace parts, plus adding many hours of time to do the install, I want it to work without problems.
Thanks for any help.
|11-01-2010 10:45 AM|
Still- We bought the 40D forced air furnace and installed it ourselves. I can't tell you about fuel consumption other than to say it's very little. The first winter after I installed it the boat was out of the marina with no shore power because of low tides and as luck would have it we got a bitter cold Nor'easter for 4-5 days during which I ran the furnace non-stop at a fairly high setting. I kept looking at the sight glass on the fuel tank the furnace draws out of and I could never see any discernible change ( 95 US gal cap.). The furnace kept the boat at about 55F while the outside temp was in the teens with a 30+ knot wind blowing.
The amp draw varies with the temp/fan setting. I'll be at the boat today and should be able to get some accurate readings since it's doubtful that the solar panels are going to be contributing anything today (Pineapple express = monsoon rain and dark). I'll post the readings I get.
|11-01-2010 08:07 AM|
Great to have you on board, Westlake2/Doug!
We field many questions about boat heating systems. Your expertise will be very valuable to the membership.
|11-01-2010 07:57 AM|
so sorry for my mistake in the original post - it has been corrected. That'll teach me not to rush before heading out to use the boat for a long weekend!
Wallas Heater | Boat | Furnace | Stoves | Cooking Equipment | ScanMarineUSA.com
|10-28-2010 06:31 PM|
Link is wrong
Our link is Wallas Heater | Boat | Furnace | Stoves | Cooking Equipment | ScanMarineUSA.com
|10-28-2010 03:08 PM|
|Stillraining||I was wondering about that John...I could not remember the brand you installed.....Which model and whats the REAL world amp draw and fuel burn rate.|
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