|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|11-14-2010 05:39 AM|
Do you have any "before" pics that show what I will find if and when I pull down my ceilings? That would be a great bit of insight to have. Perhaps we should start a new thread about I-28 cabin interiors?
|11-14-2010 04:23 AM|
That is impressive work and a lot of it! I like the way it looks. I am going to do something about my ceilings because of other work I am doing but I had not considered glassing it all. Do you think you have added much weight? My 1977 hull has a vinyl ceiling with access zippers. A couple of the zippers are fused and the edges of the ceiling is coming loose in places because the staples holding it have rusted. I am considering teak or mahogany lath and trim.
Consider a Lavac head. I installed one and am very happy with it. it adds an emergency manual bilge pump, too. I will collect some pics of that install.
|11-14-2010 04:15 AM|
It is a rugged keel installation. The I-28s are well built boats. The bolts all ring true and I am going to leave them alone unless a keel joint leakage problem arises.
|11-14-2010 01:06 AM|
Iím glassing over and finishing all the fiberglass surfaces, I want to see the structure of the boat not cover it up. Inside the head Iíll finish the surfaces smooth and use a two-part paint system. In the other areas Iím not going to try to smooth things up much more than is shown in the pictures Ė will probably use a high build epoxy primer followed by a satin one-part top coat. The sole will be finished smooth and painted with a two-part paint system with some sort of non-skid.
The mast step was rebuilt using solid fiberglass for the section of sole and the floor beam below the compression post.
|11-13-2010 04:18 AM|
Hi, not a I-28 owner but this construction is first class.
The plate distributes the keel force more evenly and properly bedded would be a great improvment on the single heavy washers on my Westerly.
I have been thinking along these lines for a permenant cure to seepage into the bilges due to keel/hull flexing.
Can only link pairs of keel bolts at present due to bilg strengthening struts but it may be worth removing these as they require repair anyway.
I would be concerned about the amount of corrision visible on your keel bolts and nuts. It could be worse were it can,t be seen.
|11-13-2010 03:32 AM|
Wow! You have been busy. It looks like a little more than the floor boards and the mast step have gotten some attention. I would like to see more pics. What did you do about the ceilings?
|11-12-2010 07:39 PM|
I have been doing a lot of work on my Islander 28, attached are pictures taken during replacement of the floors, mast step ect. This is my first posting - I hope it works.
|11-02-2010 10:35 AM|
I've got images of the before, during and after replacing the floors etc. Building a place to post, will advise when complete.
BTW, I had composed a couple of paragraphs on the rudder thread but lost them when this site didn't play nice...
I am also putting together some notes on plugging holes in the hull, will advise when posted. I'll try to get the rudder tube stuff in there too.
Also, the the very best things about i28 are Bob Perry design inspired. I understand he gave them the design and then they did the engineering. The few problems we face stem from construction and engineering which were the respobsibility of Islander yachts. The keel stub, floors, mast strut footing (on the plywood cabin sole) were all theirs (financial choices no doubt) and we are given opportunities to address these issues as required. An i28 could be made perfect but then we wouldn't have time to sail them. I prefer the manageable "working toward perfection" approach.
Thanks Bob Perry, I think of you each time I sail my most excellent boat.
|11-01-2010 05:44 AM|
The knot meter has been relocated up on the hull and a little aft of this, the old, location. I am going to glass this hole in. There has been a dummy plug living in this hole since I got this boat. One less hole in the hull.
|10-31-2010 07:52 PM|
Couldn’t find a photo of my bilge in the dry state. I do have the steel plate, and recall some sealant, but not as much as yours. I’ll look closer next week.
Interesting location for the knot meter; mine is under the starboard settee, where I believe many boats have a holding tank.
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