|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|11-07-2010 08:15 AM|
|WanderingStar||Thanks. The old lines were full of coarse deposits.|
|11-06-2010 01:12 PM|
One arrow you might want to add to your quiver for head meintenance/longevity that I have found very helpful is to keep a squeeze bottle (used liquid soap bottle or whatever) with a mix of SaltAway and water in the heads. We have and when anyone uses the head, once they've pumped the bowl empty and flushed the system (at least 5 added pump strokes please) we ask them to put a good squirt of the SaltAway mix in the bowl and give the pump a few more strokes. Getting this material into the waste lines prevents the built-up of salt and calcium carbonate in the lines and seems to help preserve the flapper valve and joker valve and our heads remain clean and functional. I do a maintenance call on the units (we have two) annually but can easily get two or three years on a set a valves (more if I wanted to push the issue). While SaltAway is not inexpensive, one needs only 1+/- oz in a large (34 oz) squeeze bottle so it is a cost effective way to help maintain the head equipment.
|11-06-2010 09:59 AM|
Thanks guys. I'll update you when (if) I solve the problem. This site has been enormously helpful to me in bringing my head into the 21st century.
Answering some suggestions: I have a vented loop on the overboard discharge, which diverts off the tank line with a y-valve (handle removed). The tank inflow does not have a loop as it does not go overboard and cannot siphon seawater into the boat. This backflow occurred while testing the overboard discharge with seawater only. It happened slowly, I didn't notice the extra water in the bowl until later. After that I pumped some air through the line by operating the pump. That seemed to solve it. I don't know if the valve cleared or the water was just all overboard.
|11-05-2010 02:33 PM|
|Cruisingdad||WS - Pleaes tell us how it turned out when appropriate.|
|11-05-2010 10:32 AM|
It's no Joke
Originally Posted by svHyLyte View Post
I have owned boats with marine heads for almost three decades. No "joker" valve ever leaked back regularly. Once in a while we can tell that a tiny piece of paper is hung up in the valve though, by the slow back filling at the bottom of the bowl.
Lots of folks turn off the head discharge thru-hull when not using the head; we turn it off only when leaving the boat.
(None of our boats ever has had a vented loop on the outflow... but that does not mean it is a bad idea.)
|11-05-2010 10:15 AM|
|Cruisingdad||If your tank is not venting well, when you pump it, you may get it bleeding back into the bowl. Also try taking off the deck cap so it will breathe. See what happens. That will only take seconds. If it does not go back into the bowl, you know your problem.|
|11-05-2010 10:02 AM|
Hylyte, I'll loosen them until it leaks, then tighten them til it just stops.
|11-05-2010 08:44 AM|
If fact, one can over-tighten the bolts holding a joker-valve in place and, if the flange for the collar is not perfectly flat, that can spread the lips enough to allow leakage, particularly it the water column is not great enough that the water pressure forces them closed. It really doesn't reguire much torque on the bolts to create a water-tight seal around the collar base.
|11-05-2010 08:41 AM|
|JimsCAL||Is there a vented loop between the head and holding tank?. If not, adding one will probably solve the problem.|
|11-05-2010 08:40 AM|
what a crappy problem!!!
yuk yuk yuk
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|