|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-23-2011 12:41 PM|
|mitiempo||As I recall 2 lbs less buoyancy per cubic foot of water in fresh than in salt water. If a hypothetical 30' boat has a displacement of 10.000 lbs it displaces about 161 cubic feet of salt water and 167 cubic feet of water in fresh. A difference of 360 lbs or 6 cubic feet of water. A boat like the Seidelmann sinks 1" with the addition of 943 lbs of extra weight. So it should be lower between 1/3" and 1/2" in fresh water. If a boat sank 6" in fresh I think we would have heard about it by now.|
|05-23-2011 07:33 AM|
|headcaseracer||Brian- the last boat we brought from salt to fresh was a 1978 Neptune. She had a narrow beam and was heavy for a 24'. It did sit that deep. I was shocked. We pulled it out and had to raise the bottom paint because the "water line" of the boat paint was under water and crud was collecting on the unprotected side of the boat. You said doing the math. Is there a formula or something for the salt vs freshwater depth that a boat sits?|
|05-23-2011 12:47 AM|
|mitiempo||There should be a difference between salt and fresh water, but not 6". Without doing the math I would guess no more than 1" deeper in fresh water.|
|05-23-2011 12:08 AM|
|headcaseracer||Glad you got it fixed. I have a question for you that is a little off topic. When I was in North Carolina with my last boat, I drew 2'8". When I came to freshwater in Lake Michigan, I drew 3'2". What do you actually draw in salt?|
|05-16-2011 10:41 AM|
I found out that ribs under the compression post had some rot and that is why the mast was slipping downwards - I jacked up the roof of the cabin on both sides of the compression post and took out the rotten rib and replaced it with new ribs and some aluminum plates. Everything is nice and strong now.
|05-14-2011 08:55 PM|
And it could be a lot worse, like the hull is delaminating and has moved downward! The first boat I had with that problem was a 1976 Hunter 27. My current boat with that problem is a 1984 Etap 26. So yes this is a real possibility. I fixed them both, HUGE job!
Gary H. Lucas
|05-13-2011 11:40 PM|
|headcaseracer||There are a couple ways to do this. The first and best way would be to remove the mast and the deck plate. Let it dry out and see how much permanent damage you have. If there is no damage, you need to at minimum replace the wooden posts under the mast. If there is damage to to the deck, there are two ways to fix it. The first and hardest is to cut that area out and reglass a new area in. The second way is to have a custom deck plate made that is at least twice as big to help support the weight on the deck.|
|11-16-2010 05:48 PM|
|JimsCAL||Based on the information given, it sounds like the wooden pieces making up the compression post are unable to carry the mast load and allowing the deck to distort. It looks like you need to unstep the mast, repair/rebuild/replace the compression post, and then repair the deck.|
|11-16-2010 01:43 PM|
Unless I open something up, you/I can't see anything other than 2 big cracks about 6" long going from opposite sides of the mast on the cabin top; can't see anything even if you peel back the liner.
I did get an interesting suggestion to put two 1/4 inch aluminum plates along opposite sides of the compression post.
This still leaves open the question of whether there is any damage to the plate or whatever Seidelmann put at the base of the mast and above the compression post (that goes down to the keel).
Thanks for your interest.
IF, IF I have to rebuild the step how does that happen? I'm assuming the mast has to be lifted up first? then cut open the cabin top, rebuild the plate, then put mast down and reglass the top?
|11-16-2010 01:27 PM|
|zz4gta||Is there anyway you can get pics? Sounds like you need to rebuild the step and compression post.|
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|