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  Topic Review (Newest First)
01-15-2011 01:20 PM
coreywoodworking We were neighbors, and you were one of the few people I knew, if I have you correctly. You're on B dock, you were a nurse, you lost your lovely bride two years ago to cancer, and you're working on a townhouse in East Boston. Do I have the right person?

I was on C dock, the guy who never got a cover up, only the frame (I finally got both up last winter) on a 28' boat no longer called Fiasco (as she generally was, in so many regards, and I disliked being reminded!)

I summer on a hook in Duxbury Bay but she (now Nanagram) was in such tough shape, after three years living aboard without hauling, that I put her in the Brownell yard this winter for a mini-refit next spring and summer.

I plan to sail south mid- or late-summer and aren't coming back. I've had enough snow and diabetes is ravaging my body. I want to sail south while I can still read charts and have feet for flippers.

Sometime, come spring, I'd love to catch up. Maybe coffee at Sorelle?
01-11-2011 02:54 PM
Originally Posted by MacGyverRI View Post
You can get the sheets w/ Foil face on flame resistant foam etc. made for the heat of engine compartments and noise control. It's not cheap

This one isn't bad in price,
Heat Wave - Acoustic Thermal Insulation and Engine Insulation Material
thanks for the link, while not especially cheap, that compartment isnt that big... maybe 3 or for sheets at 9sq/ft per? anyway, thanks again
01-11-2011 01:56 PM
Originally Posted by QuickMick View Post
would you guys use the same stuff in the engine compartment? im noticing a bit of a draft coming through there.
You can get the sheets w/ Foil face on flame resistant foam etc. made for the heat of engine compartments and noise control. It's not cheap

This one isn't bad in price,
Heat Wave - Acoustic Thermal Insulation and Engine Insulation Material
01-11-2011 12:10 PM
mitiempo Quinn
I would use the materials designed for engine compartments instead of what is being discussed - not only will it help reduce noise but is fire rated.

Reflectix is good for radiative and a little bit of conductive, but the closed cell foams are better at conductive as the chart I posted shows. When installed and sealed around the edges the convective is taken care of as well.
01-11-2011 12:09 PM
Tim R. I am a live-aboard on a Caliber 40lrc in portland , Maine and am doing the same thing. I recently installed an ITR Hurricane H2 heater which uses about 15gallons of diesel a week. One of the best heat savers I have installed is the clear shrinkwrap. It was 65 on deck at noon yesterday.

As for insulation, I installed some 1/2" Tuff-R from Home Depot this past weekend. It works fairly well next to the bunk(where the admiral sleeps) and inside one of the hanging lockers. Unfortunately it dents easily and is open cell. I am looking for an alternative.

As for the plywood cored decks, that is correct. Caliber uses plywood cut into squares and then tiled in epoxy throughout the deck.
01-11-2011 11:54 AM
rmeador I also live aboard in Boston Harbor (at Constitution Marina). Are we neighbors? Anyways, I have used the Reflectix on my boat and it seems to make a difference. My understanding of how those reflective type insulations work is that their R-value is dependent on the temperature difference across them. When there is a high temperature difference, more heat is being lost due to radiation, and it's the radiation they block, not conduction like other insulating materials. I'm not 100% sure that explanation is correct, so take with a grain of salt. I used my reflectix to insulate the lockers that the ducting for my Espar runs through. It has made the air coming out of the V-berth vent noticeably warmer. That's the only insulation I've added to my boat. My boat seems to have a lot of air spaces near the hull that I guess act as pretty good insulation on their own, since I'm plenty warm and only burn about 1 gallon of diesel a day.
01-11-2011 11:41 AM
QuickMick would you guys use the same stuff in the engine compartment? im noticing a bit of a draft coming through there.
01-10-2011 11:49 AM
sailingdog Another option is to use regular closed-cell foam insulation and then laminate mylar "space blanket" to the inner surface to provide additional insulation. I'd point out that most of the plastic/foam insulation will produce toxic fumes if burned. Cork is a better choice if you want to avoid toxic fumes. Aerogel is a good insulator, but expensive and difficult to work with.
01-09-2011 10:30 PM
mitiempo Reflectix is not R-5. Below is a chart from Capt'n Pauley's site I linked to above. That shows it at 2.38/inch. It is about 3/8' thick so R value is .89 for 1 layer. Note that several of the foam types listed are R-5 or better. I like the Reflectix/1/2" closed cell foam/Reflectix method and will use it in my V berth area. The foam I use is Ethafoam, a flexible closed cell foam that is easy to cut and glue in place.
01-09-2011 09:39 PM
MacGyverRI I already glued 1 layer of the Reflectix on my boat (a work in progress), including inside the storage areas/cabinets etc., intending to get new Vinyl fabric to cover it but after seeing the "strip plank" type installation noted above I'm now going to finish it that way.

The Reflectix has been doing a great job w/ just 1 layer (R 5?) and I'm only using "1" 20 lb. propane tank every 7-10 days and keep my boat 72-74 avg. inside w/ winter lows that avg about 15F here in Rhode Island.

On the bottom of settee's storage area, I used 1/2" foam carpet pad and it also made a difference but I may change that out w/ some closed cell.

This is a mailorder closed cell foam page, but they sell all types of foam, including custom cut (V-Berths etc.), really reasonable. Poke around, they have lots of deals.
closed-cell foam, slow recovery memory foam, qualex foam, polyethylene, neoprene, polystyrene, EPS,
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