|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|01-20-2011 09:39 PM|
|Gene Smith||Have any 323 folks seen an Atomic 4 removal without cutting the furniture apart? It looks like the engine might fit out through the access door for overhaul if the vee drive, alternator, manifold and transmission are separated first. Anyone?|
|12-05-2010 03:30 PM|
I tried to reply to your post last week, but for some reason I couldn't. Maybe this one will work.
We bought our Pearson in 2004 and didn't repower as it was out of the question at the time due to cost. My boat is #102, a 1978 issue, and it was 4 years before having to face it - the fuel tank first and then the engine 6 months later.
I did a lot of research on available diesel engines, but the only one that made sense to me was the Beta 28. Our engines are installed backwards with a V-drive, and it was the only one that gave reasonable access to the raw water pump and impeller. This is the reason we selected the Beta 28 engine.
I budgeted $16.5K for the entire repower job, and we came in pretty close. My budget included hauling the boat, yard fees for lifting out the old engine and lifting in the new one, and two weeks in the yard to do the job. To the cost of the basic engine and V-drive I added exhaust elbow, overflow tank, waterlift, hoses, instrument panel, transom exhaust port, other water hoses, new shaft and propeller, and two large aluminum angles to mount the engine to the bed. I also included $1500 for a mechanic to help with actual installation and alignment.
I ordered my engine directly from Beta Marine in NC, and worked with Stanley Feigenbaum for the whole job. He is very knowledgeable and was a great help. I also talked a lot with John Viera. John designed an alignment fixture to help determine the position of the engine and V-drive. I made one up and it was a big help for initial positioning the aluminum angles.
The cost of a Pearson 323 will depend a lot on what shape it is in. A really great boat which is well founded will probably sell for around $30-35K, maybe more. I have seen 323's for as low as $16.5K. I would value mine around $30K, knowing I would never be able to recover the cost of the repower. You have to decide what you are willing to pay considering you have to put in a new engine and whatever else you have to do (sails, etc.).
I hope this helps.
|11-24-2010 09:56 AM|
I'm considering buying a Pearson 323 that has had the engine removed. I guess the good news is I wouldn't have the removal work to do, but then I don't get to see how the original was installed either.
Thank you all for the great discussion about repowering. I saw the pictures John Viera posted on Fotki which is a very thorough photo documentary of replacing the engine.
What nobody has mentioned here is cost. I'm trying to work out how much would be reasonable to pay for the boat without an engine. Obviously the price I pay for the boat plus the cost of repowering has to be less than, or at least in the neighborhood of, the value of the boat after repowering. Problem I have is I have no idea what it would cost to do the job.
Thanks much for any info you may be able to share.
|09-09-2010 11:48 PM|
I've sent my e-mail to you via a private message.
|09-09-2010 08:11 PM|
Getting the fiberglass column out of the way turned out to be very easy. I am ready to bolted it back in place. I have three cleats made of teak already installed, ready to have the column bolted to it. This is the last thing I have to do, and it will finish my engine repower job.
I cut the column using a hacksaw blade. If you give me an email address I will send you pictures. I have a picture from John Viera who just did the same job, with his column in place. I will include the picture he sent me.
|09-09-2010 02:13 PM|
Originally Posted by kb7c View Post
I'm also faced with having to do a repower of my P323, and I'm looking for ideas on how to cut out the fiberglass column in a way that allows re-attaching it in a non-permanant fashon so that it can be removed for engine maintenance. Can you post photos of how you cut and restored your column?
|08-26-2010 09:06 AM|
I got the transmission out. It weighs about 37 lbs by my bathroom scale. Tell me where to send it.
|08-24-2010 03:45 PM|
Ok. I will take another crack at getting the transmission and v-drive off tomorrow morning. If I do get the transmission off by itself, I will weigh it and try to work put shipping. I can take the part(s) to the UPS store and get an estimate on cost, which I will do as soon as possible. Give me a zip code for the shipping estimate.
|08-24-2010 03:34 PM|
I am willing to take the whole assembly. I used BP Blaster a few times before attempting to back out the bolts. If you can get it fairly cheaply at an autoparts store and I have had great luck with it.
|08-24-2010 03:21 PM|
I just got the engine out today. I have been unable, up to now at least, to separate the V-drive from the transmission part you want, and unable to break loose the 4 allen head screws holding the lot to the main block. If I can't get the V-drive off, but do get the whole assembly off the engine block, you may have to take both pieces and solve the separation problem yourself. Anyway, I will keep trying to break the bonds on these parts so you can get them. It may be a lot easier now that the engine is out of the boat.
I want to post somewhere on this forum that I have an MD11C engine with a lot good parts and want to get rid of them as quickly as possible.
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