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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Soliciting sage haulout advice
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Thread: Soliciting sage haulout advice Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-15-2011 03:10 PM
sailingfool After cleaning the prop and shaft, paint both with 3-4 coats of this stuff http://www.pettitpaint.com/fileshare...ds/1179320.pdf
and they will stay barnucle free for at least six months or more, depending on local conditions.
02-15-2011 11:16 AM
blt2ski Something I will do on the next haul out, altho a good diver can do this. If you have a max prop or equal, and want/need to change out the pitch, this is a good time, or for that matter, change from a fixed to a folding/feathering prop for a bit more lighter air performance. I' going to add one pitch adjustment to my max prop to see if I can get a bit more speed out of the boat.

Otherwise, lots of good advise to chew over!

marty
02-15-2011 10:43 AM
willynilly Thanks, SJ2K. The yard will take it's time, doing the bronze, zinc, and through hull work first. Should be a few weeks before they start the sanding and prep. Meanwile, I'll prep the deck and brightwork for paint and varnish, and a new dodger will be the cherry atop the dessert!
02-15-2011 10:31 AM
souljour2000 I would suggest letting it dry out for a month under a tarp ...and meanwhilst attend to other smaller projects...then let them do the bottom job...(if you can afford the extra month)...

The paint and barrier coat will stick and absorb much better at that point IMHO...

I am getting ready to haul out my Seafarer 24 and plan on 4-6 weeks drying time before I do any painting but she's a fairly ancient hull from 1971 and I want to insure good adhesion since the bottom paint on her from her '05 bottom job by earlier owner now is literally peeling off in fairly large strips. Good luck
02-15-2011 06:16 AM
willynilly Trying to post an image, but we have trouble getting AM radio out here, much less a fast connection!
02-15-2011 06:11 AM
willynilly Ten four. I'll check out what they like at the yard for the packing. It's two and a half hours away, but we're still a month ahead of schedule. I should get a look tonight. As far as the blisters go, the photos look good, the few open blisters have gel coat underneath, there was a spot that will need epoxy from a crab pot strike, and I'm told the rudder is in good shape. They will start the bottom paint next week, and we are expecting Spring weather.
02-14-2011 04:28 PM
sailingdog
Quote:
Originally Posted by lancelot9898 View Post
I assume that the GFO stuff is the same as the GTU flax sold by WM and Defender, both being gortex. ??
Very similar. The stuff to avoid is the crap that has the "putty" like stuff, because that will cause damage to the shaft.
02-14-2011 04:21 PM
lancelot9898
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
If you decide to stick with a standard/traditional stuffing box, please do yourself a favor and get the GFO goretex packing material, [/B]
I assume that the GFO stuff is the same as the GTU flax sold by WM and Defender, both being gortex. ??
02-14-2011 03:52 PM
sailingdog If you decide to stick with a standard/traditional stuffing box, please do yourself a favor and get the GFO goretex packing material, as it requires less water dripping to lubricate it. It should not be DRIPLESS when the shaft is turning, but can often be adjusted such that it doesn't drip when the shaft is not moving.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowButSteady View Post
WN,

Be aware that if a dripless shaft seal fails, while admittedly a rare event, it can sink your boat. A properly adjusted stuffing box lets very little water into the boat, and can't really fail in the catastrophic manner that dripless seals sometimes do.
02-14-2011 01:04 PM
SlowButSteady WN,

Be aware that if a dripless shaft seal fails, while admittedly a rare event, it can sink your boat. A properly adjusted stuffing box lets very little water into the boat, and can't really fail in the catastrophic manner that dripless seals sometimes do.
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