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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Electrical Systems > Best LED Deck Light?
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Thread: Best LED Deck Light? Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-15-2011 04:41 PM
noelex77
Quote:
Originally Posted by MaviAtta View Post
I thought this would be a great first post. Two years ago I swapped out most my bulbs for custom LEDs. I made all the lights and put them in thier existing housing. LEDs used to go by 1 watt 2 watt etc etc.. They don't really go by that any more. Now it's all drive power.

My boat is moored in Boston Harbor and traveled over 800 miles and they still work flawlessly and they're about 3 times brighter than the previous bulbs and the LEDs you can buy as replacement bulbs.

Attached are some pictures. Basically, with a resistor, heatsink and LED it's tricky to get all the soldering and such down, but once you do, it really makes ahuge difference.

I just run a rebel star backed with a heatsink and an inline resistor going to each LED. They are drivin with 12v and reduced to 3.4 volts at the resistor. The 3 nav lights work about 8 hours and use about .5 - .7volts.

To make them brighter you can get a bigger heatsink and use more juice, but you wont have to.


I can't post links because it's my first post. I'll be happy to email anyone the pictures.
I also have built some interior lights using a Cree XP-G R5 and I agree the results are much better than anything you can buy. I would however suggest the addition of a driver rather than a dropping resistor. Its more efficient, with consistent brightness. You can also go brighter without compromising the led life.
03-15-2011 03:52 PM
MaviAtta
Rebel LED

I thought this would be a great first post. Two years ago I swapped out most my bulbs for custom LEDs. I made all the lights and put them in thier existing housing. LEDs used to go by 1 watt 2 watt etc etc.. They don't really go by that any more. Now it's all drive power.

My boat is moored in Boston Harbor and traveled over 800 miles and they still work flawlessly and they're about 3 times brighter than the previous bulbs and the LEDs you can buy as replacement bulbs.

Attached are some pictures. Basically, with a resistor, heatsink and LED it's tricky to get all the soldering and such down, but once you do, it really makes ahuge difference.

I just run a rebel star backed with a heatsink and an inline resistor going to each LED. They are drivin with 12v and reduced to 3.4 volts at the resistor. The 3 nav lights work about 8 hours and use about .5 - .7volts.

To make them brighter you can get a bigger heatsink and use more juice, but you wont have to.


I can't post links because it's my first post. I'll be happy to email anyone the pictures.
03-15-2011 01:06 PM
eherlihy
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkofSeaLife View Post
What? After blowing up $10,000 worth of electronics you're worried about a hundred bucks, or so, of LED's?
Not at all... I'm simply pointing out that there are advantages and disadvantages to LED lighting. There is also no such thing as a free lunch.
03-15-2011 09:45 AM
MarkofSeaLife
Quote:
Originally Posted by eherlihy View Post
My post above got me wondering about what was damaged on Maine's vessel by the lightning strike...
Short story;
- Maine Sail
What? After blowing up $10,000 worth of electronics you're worried about a hundred bucks, or so, of LED's?

Buy the LEDs if they will save power and if you don't need them extremely bright.
Deck light = Halogen
Spot lights = Halogen

becuse you dont use them for long. If you do, then put on the donk.

If you use them for long periods rugularly then you are gunna have a power/light problem more than a 'normal' sailing boat
03-15-2011 08:38 AM
eherlihy My post above got me wondering about what was damaged on Maine's vessel by the lightning strike... If you are interested, you can read about it here. (Sorry about the link to another forum.)

Short story;
Quote:
Four GPS devices, radar, AP, wind, depth speed, stereo, Bora Caframo fan, Matrix 2100 VHF/AIS, TV, 13 Sensibulbs, all LED nav lights, Link Pro battery monitor, DC volt meter, DC amp meter, tachometer, oil pressure, fuel gauge, pure sine wave inverter, compass light etc. etc. on and on...
- Maine Sail
03-15-2011 07:52 AM
eherlihy
Quote:
Originally Posted by fallard View Post
... Should you have a lightning strike or even a near strike, you are likely to lose the LEDs. This goes for lights inside the cabin as well as any attached to your mast.
And THAT is the best reason that I know of NOT to go with LED lights.

I believe that MaineSail has had some recent experience with lightning. With all the LED lighting that he has, it would be interesting to hear what was damaged.
03-15-2011 05:36 AM
noelex77
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
For instance, if one LED is rated 1000 Lumens with a ten degree pattern, and the next one is rated the same 1000 Lumens but a 20 degree pattern...the second bulb is covering four times as much area with that same brightness.
No lumens is the total amount of light put out by a luminare integrated over a sphere or (360 degrees if you like).
2 LEDs putting out 800 lumens will emit the same amount of light.
One fitting can produce a brighter spot than another by concentrating the light with say a reflector, but the sidespill will decrease and the total output will be unchanged.

Relying on specifications is not a good way to judge LED products from different manufacturers as the values quoted are often calculated (or made up ) in different ways.
If you can find the type of led or leds used this is often the best way to compare products, but many manufacturers only list the most basic information.
03-15-2011 12:36 AM
fallard When you are selecting an LED for color, somewhere around 2700 degrees is the color temperature of an incandescent. The higher the color temperature, the more "blue' it will appear.

If you are changing out incandescents for LEDs, using the same socket, hang on to the old bulbs. Should you have a lightning strike or even a near strike, you are likely to lose the LEDs. This goes for lights inside the cabin as well as any attached to your mast.
03-14-2011 07:04 PM
hellosailor Velero, the color temperature refers to the color of the light. Literally, blue-white, white-white, yellow-white, cool-white...the same way that fluorescent bulbs come in all kinds of "white".

What you really need to look at is LUMENS, that's the brightness of the bulb. And not just lumens but the dispersion of the light. For instance, if one LED is rated 1000 Lumens with a ten degree pattern, and the next one is rated the same 1000 Lumens but a 20 degree pattern...the second bulb is covering four times as much area with that same brightness.

A bright LED with a wide pattern is going to be expensive.
03-14-2011 01:50 PM
eherlihy
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkofSeaLife View Post
If you want deck lights to look pretty at anchor then you need LED. The do not work as well as Halogen but boy they don't draw no juice .
In addition to lower power requirements, enabling the owner to use smaller gauge wire, the other advantage of LED lighting over incandescent (including Halogen) is that when properly wired and mounted, LEDs have a much longer lifespan (50K+ hours). The longer lifespan is the only reason that I can fathom for replacing an incandescent steaming light with an LED.
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