|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|04-02-2011 11:53 AM|
No problem Keelhaulin.. Unfortunately there are alot of misconceptions about what certain tools (and certain marine technicians) can and can't do. In this line of work I have seen some marine technicians make false assertions using certain meters in order to scare boat owners into getting their business (like running a moisture meter along bottom paint and claiming they have blistering in the hull when it reads "wet"). In this day and age it is very important for boat owners to do their own research online after speaking to a marine technician and getting second opinions and quotes for work. I have seen thousands of dollars wasted on unnecessary work on boats where nothing was wrong with the vessel in the first place. As a boat owner of a 34' catamaran I have seen this myself several times. Even to the point where marine technicians have left business cards on my vessel in the yard asking me to call them because they noticed blistering damage or rigging that needed to be repaired (both times were not the case). So boat owners, be aware of these things. Not all technicians are like this of course, but they do exist.
|03-31-2011 03:37 AM|
|KeelHaulin||THANK YOU FOR POSTING THAT CAPT JOHN!! So many people have no idea what a moisture meter can and cannot do. Even on dry hulls you will read a moisture content if there is metallic bottom paint; because it conducts the signal from the meter!|
|03-28-2011 04:53 PM|
|SuenosAzules||I completely agree with Paul323. However you can only measure moisture with a moisture meter on areas that do not have anti foulding paint on them as the copper in the paint will create conductivity with the meter and wil read as "wet." With those areas use a phenolic hammer. Keeping it out of the water for several days will of course show slightly drier that when first hauled out. Remember the marine surveying is not an exact science. It is more an assesment of the vessel at the time it was surveyed.|
|03-16-2011 09:13 PM|
|rmeador||If you haul it, let it hang in the sling for an hour, and measure for moisture and it comes up dry, you're good. It won't get wetter while on the hard If, however, it shows moisture at that time, you may find the moisture will go down if it's left to dry for a while. So said my surveyor, and it makes sense to me. Luckily, my boat showed zero moisture when it was hauled.|
|03-16-2011 06:34 AM|
As mentioned, you won't sail it yourself. The owner isn't even likely to agree to that.
While many, if not most, hull surveys are done with a quick haul, I've been counseled that an older hull should be out of the water for at least 24 hrs to properly examine for moisture. I can't back it up, but you may want to discuss this with the surveyor in advance.
|03-15-2011 09:58 PM|
|MarkSF||Just wanted to thank everyone for the advice. Will let you know what transpires!|
|03-15-2011 05:26 PM|
|YeahJohn||Get your boat insurance at the same time as the survey, or call your insurance company, that way you only need one survey and the survey value is your insured value. Every insurance company is different and that would suck to have to do that stuff twice. Never hurts to call first just to make sure.|
|03-15-2011 01:12 PM|
|rmeador||When I took the diesel engine maintenance class at Hansen Marine, they mentioned one thing in particular... don't waste your money on an engine oil analysis unless there is a history of other analyses of the engine over time. From a single analysis, unless the problem is egregious (like water in the oil, which you should be able to tell yourself), the analysis won't tell you anything. Only when compared to other analyses from that very engine over time can it tell you how the engine is wearing internally.|
|03-15-2011 11:30 AM|
Mark - you are getting some great advice here. I would suggest a slight modifier to HyLyte's excellent summary: What you actually decide to do will depend on your tolerance of risk, and the value, age and size of the boat.
Full rigging and engine inspection are definitely an option if those are in any way a concern; my engine had 200hrs on it, and had recently been re-rigged. My surveyor gave both items a good inspection (including heat-gun on the engine, magnifying glass on rigging, etc), cautioned me that a full survey would be required to give a detailed assessment, but said they looked in line with reported age and use. Given my particular situation I decided not to do the full engine and rigging surveys. Or a bigger/more valuable boat - yeah. What you so for a Santana 22 wouldn't be the same as an Olsen 54!
|03-15-2011 11:17 AM|
Many purchase offers are subject to both an acceptable sea trial and survey which is wise. If so, the sea trial should be conducted before you undertake the cost of a haul out. It is also worth having your surveyor with you during the sea trial so that he/she can examine the rig and sails. While few people insist on it, a good survey should include an inspection of the rigging, which must be done in the water (too dangerous to have someone go aloft while the yacht's on the hard); and, a thorough mechanical inspection which may include an analysis of the engine oil. (When we bought our boat, we insisted on having a good mechanic inspect the engine and its operation).
There is more to this subject but the foregoing should get you headed in the right direction at this point.
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