|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|04-09-2013 07:36 PM|
Re: Outboard motor shop scam?
Originally Posted by SimonMichael View Post
You'll need to come up with something more than just your word if you wish to libel someone on SailNet.
|04-09-2013 02:43 PM|
Re: Outboard motor shop scam?
Be careful with (business name and link removed by tdw) I've lost a lot of money at this site address. I lost $ 3.845 on the purchase of outboard that until now I have not received the goods
|03-20-2011 10:13 AM|
|pvanv1||Year is completely unimportant for servicing a Tohatsu/Nissan, but precise model/serial is critical.|
|03-18-2011 09:32 PM|
Oh, I did post the end result of this shop visit yesterday. I did pay it and no it was not a scam. Really good to know your experience, it helps puts my mind at ease even more. I did say this motor was a mid 90s but the shop classified it as a NS9.8B and that comes up online as a 1998 and a 2003 model so it may be a 2003. It sure don't look like its 13 years old! It does look more like 8 years old, it can be seen in my video here... YouTube - Nissan 2-stroke 9.8 on Oday 22
I have not been able to find any pics of the 1998 model but it lookes similar as the 2003 in the manual. I don't know maybe I need to call the shop and ask them. The previous owner of my boat when I bought it last year never knew the year of the motor either. Anyone recognize any noticiable differences of it in the video that can distinguish a 1998 from a 2003?
|03-18-2011 08:54 PM|
A few thoughts. I've rebuilt a number of mid-90s motors and I'm not too bad at it.
* Unless you are SURE it is fraud--a serious accusation, you have to pay the bill. To do otherwise is stealing.
* Just getting the lower unit off, if it has not been kept lubed, can take hours. I can believe 8-10 hours total. Sounds right; I once did similar service to four identical 9.9 Yamahas I own (long story that makes more sense when you know that my boat has twin 9.9s) and it took hours even after I was good at it.
* Cleaning corrosion is time consuming.
* Mid-90s is long in the tooth if a motor has not been maintained. Doable for sure, but tough at $75/hour.
* Any outboard owner should get to know them better. A mechanic is not always handy. However, I would suggest the MANUFACTURER manual, not an aftermarket manual; pricier and worth it the first time it saves time. I have found this to be true of cars and boats.
|03-18-2011 08:00 PM|
|sailguy40||Oh I forgot to mention my flush plug is frozen. It won't unscrew for the life of me. I asked them at the shop about it, he recommended I just leave it as is. I probably should have told him to take it off anyway since its obvious for me it would be easier to flush that way. I think my bracket can indeed lift up, I will have to take a look because I never tried it. I will figure out a way to do it without actually taking it off the boat all the time. I am wondering how long it took for this motor to get all the corrosion built up in it. Plus with that flush plug being frozen, I would not doubt its been a very long time since its been flushed. I used it all last summer and never flushed it because I could not get that plug off, never realized I could run it in a bucket of water or I would have done it at least a few times. Well its going back on my boat Sunday and I am going to run it.|
|03-18-2011 06:34 AM|
|haffiman37||If hanging on a lift bracket and free of water when tilted down, just hang e bucket under the gear-case and let a hose run into it. Water level must be above the split between gear case and leg (water pump).|
|03-18-2011 06:25 AM|
"They recommend I run it in a bucket of water after using it to keep it from getting corroded again. Problem is, it is not very easy to remove from my boat while its in the marina. I guess I will have to figure it all out because I don't want this to ever happen again."
If you have garden hose water at the slip, consider using the Tohatsu flushing adapter Part # 336600070M, $7.07. To use it, you unscrew a plug on the motor near the LU upper lube plug, screw in the adapter, connect to the garden hose, and let 'er rip for a few minutes. Now, if it's unreasonable to get to that section of the motor while at the slip, that's not much of an option.
|03-17-2011 11:55 PM|
Finally the workshop got it's saying.
I would break it down like this.
1. Test tank run -change impeller and gear oil = 1+ Hour.
2. Off power head, off head, drill out bolts, clean, replace parts, re-test = 4 hours ++
Roughly 6-7 hrs work.
Then it all comes down to the workshop hour rate.
Some people have the misconception that small engines are cheaper to repair than bigger ones, not quite.
The mech (hopefully) has the same hourly pay whichever size engine he works on.
Given that the engine may not have been 'touched' since new, it gives an about yearly service cost of $50 (15 years old), which is not too bad at all!
|03-17-2011 11:37 PM|
Originally Posted by JimMcGee View Post
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