|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|03-28-2011 06:03 AM|
Originally Posted by zboss View Post
|03-27-2011 12:03 PM|
Would a step drill bit work better for this type of work?
Amazon.com: Neiko Titanium Step Drill Bit - 1/4" to 1-3/8" in 1/8" Increments, 10 Steps: Home Improvement
|03-27-2011 09:27 AM|
Originally Posted by DrB View Post
The problems I've had with the work itself have ranged from injectors left loose after fuel filter change, which put a couple of inches of diesel in my bilge, to major scratches across my port lights when stepping the mast. Oh yea, when I came to see the rig after they tuned it, I looked up the furling slot and it was as wavy as the snake river.
Incompetence is the core of both problems.
|03-27-2011 08:53 AM|
There is financial lesson here
Originally Posted by Minnewaska View Post
|03-27-2011 02:53 AM|
Well done, one up for DIY.
Now what about a refund on these Aer Lingus business class tickets.
|03-26-2011 09:47 PM|
Originally Posted by DrB View Post
|03-26-2011 09:42 PM|
UPDATE - So I decided to attempt this myself,
Headed to the boat today after hit the hardware store for hole saw.
Arrived at boat at 3:20. I used the wooden plug technique. After undoing the tarp lines, 10 minutes looking for an outlet that was on and not being use be inconsiderate non-existent owners, 4 trips up and down the ladder because I forgot a tool, I drilled the larger hole and dry fitted the new thru-hull into it.
I left the yard at 4:30 ish, which included a trip to the head to wash up, recoiling the extension cord, put away the tools, change, and a walk to the dumpster to throw away the pieces. The yard estimated it would take 2 h.
Thanks for the help one and all.
|03-26-2011 08:36 PM|
I am about to do this job myself on my boat.
I have a 4" round piece of G10 Fiberglass that a friend cut out for me on his Bridgeport. Cost me $0, but if I were to buy this it would cost me about $60 for the 3/8" G10, and ~$20 for the hole saw... Call it $80.
SEACOCK BALL FULL FLOW FLANGED .75" EACH $40.00
THRU HULL 3/4" BRONZE WITH NUT EACH $11.50
ADAPTER PIPE TO HOSE .75" 90 DEG. EACH $7.60
WRENCH THRU HULL EACH $36.00
I have the epoxy to attach the backing plate to the hull, but see no reason why you couldn't do this with a tube of West's Six10... Six10 costs ~$23
Three each: bronze machine screws (soon to be headless), bronze nuts, bronze lock washers, and bronze washers: $25.00
TOTAL COST OF TOOLS AND MATERIALS: ~$223.10
This should take me (I've never done this before) a day... I'm out of work, but in my best job I NEVER made $1K/day. If I were a "professional" I would expect $500 for 8 hours.
I'm in the Boston area. I'll do yours (yours will be my second) for $500 total... Plus $35 travel time .
PM me if interested...
|03-26-2011 06:24 PM|
I guess you folks living in the frozen north are used to paying those high fees for winterizing. Guess I'll continue to do the job myself--despite my old age. Besides, it's a good reason to get out of the house and have a quiet visit with the boat. (she never understood this aspect of boating!)
|03-26-2011 12:27 PM|
Travelineasy, not that is is worth it, but the rate itself doesn't sound way out of line. Most winter work forms here would show that service (engine only) at $300 to $400.
However, whacking everyone for the travel fee lacks integrity and that tells you all you need to know about whether you can trust him.
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