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Go Back   SailNet Community > Boat Builders Row > Pacific Seacraft > chainplate followup
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Thread: chainplate followup Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-15-2011 06:15 PM
niftynickers In the pursuit of further knowledge today we sheared the corroded chainplate 3 more times at 4" intervals.As previously noted the corroded piece was from the lowest part of the chainplate(closest to the water).The subsequent cuts were all good metal,no corrosion evident.I think this confirms what Bill Murdoch said about Chloride corrosion from seawater immersion.

Dianne and Chuck Burke S/V NiftyNickers C37 #139
04-12-2011 01:39 PM
DaveMancini Your right Chuck. The strap on the 1996 is 3/8" x 1.75" wide x 7/8" radius, pretty hefty. Yes, I would lose sleep too.

Dave
04-11-2011 10:37 PM
niftynickers Dave,

I initially felt the same way about the stem head fitting but I think that the older boats like mine may be constructed differently from yours.I don't have a bowsprit like the newer boats and the build may not be as robust.
Mine has a SS strap that bolts thru into the anchor locker and is welded to the 2 anchor rollers at the bend around the deck.The strap is 1/4 SS the same as the port and strbd chainplates.After seeing the degradation of the plates that were rpld ,I'm no longer confident in the stem or stern plates.The thought of what could happen if the stem breaks would keep me awake nights if I didnt replace it.Ditto for the stern.

Dianne and Chuck Burke S/V NiftyNickers C37 #139
04-11-2011 03:20 PM
DaveMancini Chuck,

I gotta wonder whether that stem fitting will need replacing. I suppose some would argue with me, but if you look at the scantlings for that thing, they're twice what Skene's recommends for chainplates of that wire size. Also, it fixed between the bow roller plates so it can't flex like the chainplates do. I've opted for frequent inspection instead of replacing. It may be a rationalization for my basically lazy personality, but I'm going to stick with it.

Dave
04-11-2011 02:39 PM
niftynickers As Dave said a whack with a heavy hammer and some wiggling and some prying worked for me.Make sure that you clean out the groove that the chainplate is in with a putty knife and then drive the chainplate upward with a drift pin and hammer. More difficult was getting to the nuts inside the salon.Trying to remove the teak battens without destroying them is very difficult.
I'm now looking forward to replacing the stem piece for the headstay.The more I think about that job the more dubious I get.The stem fitting is integral with the bow rollers and must be removed as one piece and of course the nuts must be accessed thru the anchor locker.I'm trying to convince my tiny wife that the anchor locker is really a nice place for her to work.
Good luck with that, right.

Dianne and Chuck Burke S/V NiftyNickers C37 #139 1982
04-10-2011 08:53 PM
DaveMancini DMD,

With just a little coaxing (wiggle for and aft), mine pretty much just slid right up and out (1996 PSC34).

Dave Mancini
s/v Swan PSC34 #305
04-10-2011 10:30 AM
DMD I have followed this chainplate discussion with interest because we too have an older Crealock 37 (1983). My one big question to those who have actually done this replacement on PS boats is: how do you remove the old chainplate from behind the teak rub rail that runs down the side of the hull?
Dave
Crealock 37 #151
"Eowyn"
04-09-2011 12:15 PM
jrd22 Seems like I have read discussions over the years (probably here on SN) about some SS supplied on boats built in Asia (70's-80's?) that was suspect. I don't remember the specifics or which boats/models were involved. Has anyone else heard anything similar?
04-08-2011 01:33 PM
DaveMancini I vote with you. I've noticed that a number of riggers, including Brion Toss, have issues with the carriage bolt square hole in a chainplate. Good choice with the 316, also. Wish I'd done the same.

Dave
04-08-2011 01:00 PM
niftynickers Dave,
As you noted the holes are round but the bolts were carriage bolts.The corners of the square part of the bolts fit into the holes which are 5/8".I thought that that was a rather strange way to mount them but on the other hand it worked for over 25 yrs.
I seem to remember a post some time ago from someone else noting the square shouldered carriage bolt in a round hole and theorizing that perhaps the square shoulders caused stress and corrosion where they cut into the hole.I did not see evidence of that having happened.
When I replaced my chainplates I oted to use standard hex head bolts in 316 SS and 316 SS chainplate material.
Dianne and Chuck Burke S/V NiftyNickers
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