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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Interprotect Barrier Coat Questions
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Thread: Interprotect Barrier Coat Questions Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-30-2011 11:02 PM
deniseO30 Last year I helped a friend do the coat on his Erricson 27. the old gel coat was all spider cracked I mean the whole bottom too.. He completely stripped all the old paint, and did like 6 thick coats of 2000E. Not a single crack has telegraphed through the barrier coat a year later. So it's not only a barrier coat it's also a new skin.
04-30-2011 10:40 PM
cghubbell
Success!

Just wanted to check in and thank everyone for the moral support leading up to the project. I got two coats applied today, and she looks like a new boat. It's nothing short of amazing.

I ended up using a solvent resistant mohair brush in a nap slightly finer than what Interlux called for. Why? Because it's what the chandlery had in stock and I didn't want to blow time driving elsewhere. The finish is certainly not gelcoat-smooth, but it's very, very nice compared to what I started with. I have no complaints.

It was a little tricky figuring out how thick to roll it on. I get the impression that Interlux wants it rolled on fairly heavy based on the number of coats they recommend and how far each batch went. Takes quite a bit of concentration to avoid sags at that level, but it is very do-able. My second coat was a day and night difference from the first. A nice quality of IP2k is that its thickness hides goofs very efficiently on subsequent coats.

There were ZERO issues with quick curing. I mixed up 50% of the product per batch and let it sit for the recommended 15-20 minutes to evacutate air bubbles. I'd occasionally see a little skim on the surface of the bucket's contents, but 10-15 seconds of swizzling dissolved that back into the soup.

One gallon of IP2k covered about 1-1/3 of my hull, so I think I'm going to end up over Interlux's recommended thickness. No harm done there.

Here she is at coat #2 where I left her this evening...

From Restoring Ravat


From Restoring Ravat


From Restoring Ravat


Tomorrow morning it's back out to the yard to finish up coats 3 & 4. If I'm lucky I may even get the new bow hatch installed while coat 3 dries. Whew!
04-29-2011 05:33 PM
Maine Sail
Quote:
Originally Posted by cghubbell View Post
According to the Interprotect Product sheet when overcoating with VC-17m the Interprotect layers are supposed to dry for 24-36 hours, then be sanded with 180-220 grit paper.

So, it looks like the thumb prints are more for timing the Interprotect layers than tying in with my anti-fowling. This process only applies to the VC-17m or VC-17m Extra though. All other anti-fowling paints must be applied in the overcoating window.

Lotsa details to manage with these boat projects!
Sorry, my bad, I missed that part about the VC. VC does not chemically bond with a barrier coat like many bottom paints do..

The Interprotect layers do not need thumb print timing and can be re-coated once dry. If you try it with thumb print it can lift and soften the lower layers. Ask me how I know.... Doh'.... The open times are quite long before needing to sand IP2KE for another coat.
04-29-2011 04:53 PM
cghubbell
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maine Sail View Post
If you apply with a foam roller there should be no real need to sand or roll & tip. For the "hot coating" you want thumbprint dry. This means you can leave a thumbprint but none comes off on your thumb.

For our boat this was roughly a 15-20 minute window at about 72 degrees so one guy was rolling the last coat of 2000e while the next guy followed about 20 minutes behind. The "hot coat" layer is the most important one as it chemically bonds the first paint layer to the epoxy so you don't get peeling paint in a few seasons.
According to the Interprotect Product sheet when overcoating with VC-17m the Interprotect layers are supposed to dry for 24-36 hours, then be sanded with 180-220 grit paper.

So, it looks like the thumb prints are more for timing the Interprotect layers than tying in with my anti-fowling. This process only applies to the VC-17m or VC-17m Extra though. All other anti-fowling paints must be applied in the overcoating window.

Lotsa details to manage with these boat projects!
04-29-2011 04:29 PM
cghubbell
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingfool View Post
Chris,
The CS27 is a sweet boat, and its great to someone giving one a second life. I'm sure you will find years of satisfaction and pleasure in payback for all the pain and $$$ you are investing - great job.

As you have been given good advice above, I'll offer a sailing caution based on your blog's picture...always remove any slack from your reefing lines...you wouldn't want a loop to catch a head during a gybe, especially after all this work...
Not to get too far off topic, or intentionally embarass myself, but that was my second time sailing the boat, and I barely knew what reefing was at that time

To be honest, I am not sure how to reef this boat's main yet. The PO did some very unique customizations... Things which were... How shall I say it? Creative! So the original reefing system is probably not rigged properly. That's going to be one of the summer projects... One of MANY!
04-29-2011 04:22 PM
cghubbell
Quote:
Originally Posted by deniseO30 View Post
I would opt for cooler weather.. the stuff kicks off quick! typical of epoxies if you leave it mixed and in a can it will kick even faster. When we coated strip canoes we always used shallow pans for the stuff. (clear epoxy) When We did the barrier coat on my boat,(2000E) it went well but I expected it to kick faster then the label would lead you to believe. I've had bad luck with foam rollers too.

I don't have much of an option for looking for cooler weather... Spring has sprung. If I wait, it will most likely only get warmer.

What type of bad luck did you have with foam rollers? It was my understanding that solvent resistant rollers are the right tool for the job. Is there more to it?
04-29-2011 12:17 PM
Maine Sail If you apply with a foam roller there should be no real need to sand or roll & tip. For the "hot coating" you want thumbprint dry. This means you can leave a thumbprint but none comes off on your thumb.

For our boat this was roughly a 15-20 minute window at about 72 degrees so one guy was rolling the last coat of 2000e while the next guy followed about 20 minutes behind. The "hot coat" layer is the most important one as it chemically bonds the first paint layer to the epoxy so you don't get peeling paint in a few seasons.
04-29-2011 11:39 AM
TejasSailer On VC-17, I've not applied it myself, but have observed the application to my boat several times. A solvent resistant roller was used. It seems quite thin, and only a small amount was mixed at a time. No thinner was used. Six, less than one quart cans were used on our 36' boat for more than one coat, which I think is somewhat more than usual. It dries quicky so there was no wait between coats. Extra coats were applied to leading edges.

The manufactures Web site has instructions.
04-29-2011 11:18 AM
sailingfool Chris,
The CS27 is a sweet boat, and its great to someone giving one a second life. I'm sure you will find years of satisfaction and pleasure in payback for all the pain and $$$ you are investing - great job.

As you have been given good advice above, I'll offer a sailing caution based on your blog's picture...always remove any slack from your reefing lines...you wouldn't want a loop to catch a head during a gybe, especially after all this work...
04-29-2011 10:40 AM
deniseO30 I would opt for cooler weather.. the stuff kicks off quick! typical of epoxies if you leave it mixed and in a can it will kick even faster. When we coated strip canoes we always used shallow pans for the stuff. (clear epoxy) When We did the barrier coat on my boat,(2000E) it went well but I expected it to kick faster then the label would lead you to believe. I've had bad luck with foam rollers too.
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