FWIW, my cousins, who restore wood boats for a living, gave me the following advice when they helped to re-do our cabin sole (they did all the cutting, my wife and i did all the varnishing):
1. Dilute the varnish with turpentine using a 80:20 ratio (80 parts varnish, 20 parts turpentine), this helps it flow better
2. Use a very low nap roller brush to apply (Don Casey's book doesn't mention this, but it worked like a charm). Roll very slowly.
3. The recommendation for the floors was 3 coats of high gloss epiphanes followed by 3 coats of rubbed-effect epiphanes
4. Between coats, we sanded with 320 grit foam-backed sandpaper, and then followed that with tack cloth. After the tack cloth, we rubbed down the wood with a damp/dry paper shop towel that had been soaked in turpentine
Here are the results (with one old floor board for comparison):
05-31-2011 09:21 AM
Use lots of sandpaper or clean the paper as you sand. even new teak will clog the paper. Don't think you need to go finer then 220 for a nice finish. it takes quite a few coats of finish to fill the grain
05-31-2011 01:19 AM
Thanks I kind of thought the table had been varnished, the teak oil starter should give it back some colour.
05-30-2011 11:38 PM
Put some teak oil on it and let that dry and soak in.
Wipe down with acetone or alcohol a week later and then
Put on up to 10 coats of your favorite varnish.
The finish should last for years inside the cabin.
I don't use varnish for exterior wood though.
05-30-2011 08:52 PM
If you are talking about the cabin table that drops down to form the starboard bed, then it's varnish. At least that's what mine (1981 C&C 32) is finished in.
05-28-2011 12:05 PM
Old C&C teak table refinish
Does anyone know if original teak trimmed table on 1980 C&C would have been oiled or varnished. I have mine out and lightly sanded, the way it fouls sandpaper makes me think varnish, but sure does not have that look. Which is better to refinish. Dave