|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|07-02-2011 11:21 AM|
Originally Posted by mzw View Post
|07-02-2011 12:26 AM|
|LesleyS||Ball Valves are the ones I am trying to sort out. There are a couple Gate Valves that I need to replace, but the Ball valve type is the one that is broken.|
|07-01-2011 12:34 PM|
|fcsob||Do you have gate valves or ball valves ?|
|06-30-2011 04:09 PM|
I've got a 1981 416 with a non-functioning thru-hull for the aft air conditioning intake. I've never had to deal with thru-hulls before on my 26 ft Chrysler day-sailer, so this is all new to me. What do I need to do to repair the thru-hull, so that it keeps water out when closed? Also, what is the best method for unsticking and lubricating the thru-hulls before the boat goes back in the water?
Thanks in advance,
s/v Sheer Joy
|06-01-2011 09:10 PM|
|Sailmon||Just finished all my seacocks and throughulls on my 1978 382. The original throughulls were in excellent shape.|
|05-06-2011 01:15 PM|
I agree, after closer inspection, it appears that just new handles and cleaning (for most part) is all that is required.
|05-02-2011 12:22 AM|
Morgan thru hulls
Why not keep the thru hull in place and only replace the valve? That's what might be the simplest option.
|03-29-2011 03:25 PM|
Morgan Thru-Hull fittings
My Morgan has through hull fittings that are glassed into the hull. Some of these have a screen on the outside, but most are flush with the hull. While I have owned an older boat (1970 Pearson), all the through hulls on that boat were not glassed in and had a flange on the outside of the hull.
Most of the through hull fittings on the Morgan need work- new seacock valves and handles.
Anyone else have this configuration? Have you changed these out?
I thought that I could un-screw the seacock ball valve and simply screw on a replacement, but the fiberglass goes up around the ball valve as well.
Any suggestions? I would prefer to replace the entire thing with a more modern configuration where the thru-hull is a mushroom type (with a flange on the outside) with a backing block inside and a thru-hull flange nut on top of it, and then the ball valve.