|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|07-19-2011 07:43 AM|
|tommays||The #1 thing you have to learn is the massive difference in repiar/refit cost as boats get bigger even the 37 at your small end and the 45 at the big are worlds apart in the cost of most everything onboard|
|07-19-2011 06:47 AM|
Good honest advice and from real experience. Maybe I should be looking at an RV instead? NAW - same problems and it would never sail to the Bahamas without leaking. lol...
My friend with the Gulfstar 50' is SUPER handy and committed. He has rebuilt engines, played with fiberglass like he invented it, rewired, rebuilt a kitchen and teak floors, etc. He told me anyone who can screw in a lightbulb can do it too. I just shook my head.
IF I can find a decent boat in my price range that I can LIVE aboard while working on it, that would be great. I am not in a position to haul it anywhere or keep it in the dockyard to repair it, while continuing to maintain a home or even apartment. Sure, I will have it pulled to work on it for under a month, but NOT for an extended period. The clash of my budget and fantasy with the reality of what's available may kill the idea altogether. But, with some studying, patience, advice from those before me and perseverance, I think I'll find the right boat for me.
Thanks for the advice,
|07-18-2011 10:15 PM|
Theyre all composite
Composite means, literally, a combination of two or more materials. Say, for instance, fiberglass and polyester resin. Or any other two or more things you could name. It's meaningless when used to describe any boat except an old fashioned plank on frame all wood boat.
Almost all "fiberglass" boats have decks and cabin tops cored with end-grain balsa, plywood, or foam. Otherwise decks are either too flimsy or too heavy. Take a light hammer or a screwdriver handle and tap all the way around every single thing fastened to the deck. If they go "thud" instead of "bonk!" run, do not walk, away. Repairing delaminated decks with rotted core is major, major.
Look honestly at your age and commitment. You are considering a major and potentially very expensive undertaking. People have succeeded and been proud and happy. People have failed. Only you can judge your own chances.
|07-18-2011 09:43 PM|
As the current owner of a 26 foot boat that started out at $6500 and has now cost me almost $30,000 and is still on dry land, let me give you some cheap advice.
1) If you buy a fixer upper make damn sure you have some place to keep it for FREE. A marina is NOT the place!
2) If you think the work will only take a couple of months spend the money to have it hauled to some place FREE. If it takes a year you break even, if it takes 3 or 4 years the $2k for hauling each way will suddenly look like a bargain.
3) Little things like Honey Do's, Grandchildren, your job sending you out of town, Prostate Cancer, that kind of thing, some how eats up a lot of boat time.
4) The $10K boat was once a $100K boat. All the parts you will need are priced for the $100K boat.
5) Learn the difference between Used and Used Up. Many one owner boats are Used Up, while boats that have had several owners doing upgrades my only be used.
6) If you are really really handy, and can do fiberglass, carpentry, metal work, electrical, and mechanical, then you REALLY need to get a second opinion from someone else, preferably a surveyor. You'll think "I can fix that!" way too often.
7) Boats deteriorate continuously, even when you are working on them. It is easy for the deterioration to outpace you, it never quits, gets tired or frustrated.
Yesterday I went down to the boat, said F it, and went for a couple hours in the sailing dinghy on a local lake. Man's gotta sail you know?
Gary H. Lucas
|07-18-2011 08:30 PM|
Originally Posted by TQA View Post
|07-18-2011 07:44 PM|
|TQA||Don Caseys book This Old Boat would be a good investment.|
|07-18-2011 01:24 PM|
Books. Lots of books.
Honestly, the route to knowledge is long and you won't find it in a few questions.
|07-18-2011 12:06 PM|
Thanks so much. You guys are awesome! I have my work cut out for me on many levels, and I have to be wary of my tendency to be impulsive too... Irwin, Gulfstar, and Hardin are turning out to be the most "bang for the buck" so far - with regards to length/strength/accomodations/amenities in my budget range.
I met an owner of a 50' Gulfstar who showed me a little bit about looking for soft spots, etc and it was very helpful. As I make progress, I'll keep posting until I find something good. I don't think I'll do any serious looking until October - and, as a bonus, maybe the prices will drop even more as we head into winter up here in Boston?
|07-18-2011 11:42 AM|
'Composite' as it is used in the world of boating ads often refers to a hull where the glass cloth has been replaced by a high tech material like carbon or kevlar. Do be aware that the builders were looking for lightweight and the boat might have a shorter life.
However I have also seen it used to describe a boat built using wood with epoxy see here for more info. WEST SYSTEM | Projects | Profiled Boats - Wood/epoxy longevity
While I would not dismiss a boat built with either method the vast majority of boats you will look at will be good old GRP but there is a hidden problem with many older boats that were built with wood cored decks. The wood rots if water is allowed in. Many threads on this. Try to find one with this problem and walk on the deck so you know what to 'feel ' for.
Lots of boats around in that price bracket, look hard and you will find something that has all the kit and no major problems.
|07-18-2011 10:35 AM|
Composite hulls can mean many things. Wood and glass, high tech fibers, even ordinary fiberglass is a composite.
As far as boats to restore, I recommend avoiding wood unless you have knowledge and experience with it.
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