Rod rigging is stronger, lighter and presents less windage than traditional rigging. That said, it also has a nasty habit of failiing catastrophically, with little warning. Good rod rigging is wonderful, but also very difficult to do repairs on, especially in foreign waters with less advanced facilities.
If you're planning on going abroad with your boat, I would stick with conventional rigging. It is pretty easy to keep a length of 1x19 SS cable on board with the proper Sta-Lock fittings to adapt it to any piece that needs replacement. The length should be equal to the longest piece you might have to replace, often the backstay.
08-23-2006 06:11 AM
What benefits (or not) are there to rod rigging?
I had a 33 foot Petersen rigged with rod rigging but never kept the boat for long because I upgraded to a high volume 36 footer. I never had any trouble with the rod rigging but have heard tell that it needs to be "tuned" regularly, something I never did.
I've thought about using rods again. Any comments?
08-22-2006 12:30 PM
I suppose that if you don't plan on installing a furling system it won't hurt to jump up a size on the forestay. Not really necessary though.
Most 30 to 35 footers I work on are between 7/32" and 9/32"
08-22-2006 10:46 AM
The mast is 39' tall
I don't know the gauge of original wires.
I was thinking on heavier forestay to prevent wear from slipping sail, but probably that's not necessary. Thank you for de advice.
08-22-2006 10:06 AM
1/4" should be about right for everything.
If you want to be sure you need to determine the righting moment, mast height etc.
What size wire was used originaly?
08-22-2006 09:07 AM
I'm rigging my 31 foot "BRISE DE MER" aluminium 3ton displac. ballast (1 ton)sailing boat.
Can someone indicate me the reasonable size for forestay, shrouds (one set of spreaders), back stay?
Was thinking 5/16 for stay, 1/4 elsewhere. 316 19x1.