|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|10-09-2012 07:22 AM|
Re: Advice, please on crimping wire connections...
Its all in this thread and the links.
|10-09-2012 05:52 AM|
Re: Advice, please on crimping wire connections...
Hey guys, what do you think is the best quality crimper... Im in the market and I would like to get a very good quality crimper for heat shrink connections... I pretty much just use heat shrink connectors... Thanks for any input
|07-26-2009 12:23 PM|
Jeez, I thought this subject was finished. It makes an argument about religion seem tame.
Excellent tutorial on wire termination with pictures so jorjo can understand by Mainesail All About Marine Wire Termination Photo Gallery by Maine Sailing at pbase.com
Making battery cables also by Mainesail Making Your Own Battery Cables Photo Gallery by Maine Sailing at pbase.com
Wire size calculator - thanks Mainesail AWG by wire length/amps calculator
ABYC - segment of standards with wire ampacity table at bottom ABYC Wiring Standards
Link to a looong Sailnet thread on this very subject for those of you who would like to read more on this subject http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-m...soldering.html
|07-26-2009 02:36 AM|
Originally Posted by irwin325cc View Post
now heat shrink is better for physical protection but the plastic on the crimp is even better. in the long run i would say there is no difference in quality or longevity of a liquid tape or adhesive lined heat shrink. its what makes you feel better
|07-26-2009 02:12 AM|
I am in agreement with what dave.verry said. As a HVAC man I deal with wire connecters all the time and the worst tool you can use would be the very thin crimper/stripper you get at the hardware stores as those do a worse job than just a pair of needle nose pliers in my opinion. The ratchet type are good, I use a set that electricans use they look like a pair of dykes but have several diffrent crimp slots for diffrent sized wires/connectors and are like a 1/4" or more thick instead of those cheap ones that are like 1/8".
Adhesive shrink tape is a must also. Electric tape is a huge no no in the engine area as the heat and fumes will make nothing but an unraveling mess.
Has anyone tryed using the liquid electric tape? I'm curious as to how well/messy it is.
|07-26-2009 01:07 AM|
well i use crimps and solder but i am weird. i use solder for big wires, as i dont have big crimpers. what i do heat the ring and fill it with solder, then i slightly tin the wire, just enough to get some flux on the wire, then i dip the wire into the hot solder and as soon as i see it penetrate the wire i take away the heat. then i use adhesive lined heat shrink to seal.
edit i have done big connections like this for 10 years, granted never on boats till a year or so ago. i have never had one fail, including on some pretty serious off road trucks that get plenty of vibration.
for small wire i use standard anchor crimps, not heat shrink ones. then i fill the ends of the crimps with liquid electric tape, let it dry, then apply another coat until i cant see the crimp anymore. i also coat the end of the sheath with the liquid tape to stop it from getting any moisture up inside the sheath
|07-25-2009 11:12 PM|
I always use some form of corrosion inhibiter on all crimped joints. Silicon dielectric compound seems to work well. My personal preference is for the commercial "Anti Seize", availiable at any auto parts store. Supposed to be good for 50 years in salt water. Stick the wire into it first then crimp. Electricians also use a similar compound when dealing with aluminum wire.
In some 25 years of experience I can say that the "Anti Seize" has never failed. No joint protected by it has ever failed, whether it be electrical or mechanical.
|10-21-2006 10:33 AM|
Joey, if you are going to solder the wires, adding a sloppily smashed crimp to the mix is just screwing around. It serves no purpose except to waste time and money and encourage the joint to fail by adding the weight of the crimp to it.
Better to just twist the wires together and solder them, then cover them over. Faster, cheaper, simpler, more reliable.
And while you can twist wires by hand, a lineman's dyke (plier) is the tool actually designed to do that.
|10-21-2006 03:19 AM|
connections anyone can make
not everyone has access to the professional tools to properly swage a connector on. most people have what is found in homer d poe or worst marine. the crimping most people do is nothing more than using a pair of pliers to crush a soft alloy around stranded wire, this is just a weak physical connecting that is eventually going to corrode and sever the connection. a good comprimise is to use the connector to hold the wire and solder to maintain the connection which in effect meets the standards mentioned in other posts. by stripping the wire just a little long to where the wire sticks out of the barrel just a little bit, then soldier the very end of the wire to the connector, then coating the connection with liquid electrical sealant intended for this purpose. please not this only works with tinned wire. untinned copper wire will corrode starting anywhere air or moisture comes into contact with the copper, then the corrosion wicks up inside of the insulation and can travel through the insulation from end to end.
|10-04-2006 05:51 PM|
Dave and Dog Have It
Right. Way back when I was on the ABYC electrical standards team. We hashed it over and over again and again. There is no doubt that a properly soldered connection is better than a properly crimped connection.
Before I got into the boating industry I worked for Lear, and NASA all connections were soldered and had to be Inspected, for a proper connection. Remember flying machines shake and vibrate also. The consensus we came up with is It is eaiser to make a good crimp connection than a soldered one. For all the reasons mentioned by Dave and the Dog. I have seen so many slopy solder jobs done by so called pros it was a no brainer to make the crimp connection decision.
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