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Go Back   SailNet Community > Skills and Seamanship > Seamanship & Navigation > Splicing problem
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Thread: Splicing problem Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-28-2011 10:02 PM
SloopJonB
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zanshin View Post
Some ropes are tougher to splice than others, and a doublebraided line that has already been used or put under load can be almost impossible to splice. I found that my big rubber mallet helps a lot, I "tenderize" my line for a bit and then get another millimeter before repeating the process. I have a very thin steel fid to pull the line through, it is thinner than Brion Toss' magic wand and I also thin the core down before pulling it.
Do you know which brand line you are splicing?
I've found that washing the lines in a washing machine will sometimes soften them enough but basically, as Zanshin says, old double braid is not a good bet.
09-28-2011 11:26 AM
BubbleheadMd I've been taping too, without success. I have a better visual about what you're doing though. I'll give it a try.
09-28-2011 11:17 AM
zz4gta You just bend a loop in the end of the wire. A very narrow loop, and the core gets wedged in there. I almost always tape the core/cover to the fid, as I don't have the kit w/ the hook in it.

The hook kit, should be able to just stuff the core into the fid, and pull back. That should set the hook into the core......... in theory.
09-28-2011 09:22 AM
BubbleheadMd
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sailinsolo View Post
Coat hangers heat up and break, and they don't last as long, metal fatigue. Piano wire, or other slim, rugged and semi stiff wires work, some offshore fishing leads. My best is Mig welding wire. Pulling always works better, you can feel mistakes or challenges. A good permanent marker is a must. You can try talking to a production or veteran spliced to get their standard measurements. Another good tool is a set of small picks and awls. sharp scissors and masking tape.After pushing the wire loop through the core to ready to pull back, hook the other end up to a small ratchet strap to extract the tail. I had an eye in the floor specifically for pulling dbl braid eyes together. Sorry for rambling/bouncing around, new here and figuring out navigation.
I have all the stuff you're listing except the piano wire or mig wire. I still don't understand how you're attaching the core to it, to pull it through. Got a sketch or photo?
09-27-2011 11:35 PM
Sailinsolo Coat hangers heat up and break, and they don't last as long, metal fatigue. Piano wire, or other slim, rugged and semi stiff wires work, some offshore fishing leads. My best is Mig welding wire. Pulling always works better, you can feel mistakes or challenges. A good permanent marker is a must. You can try talking to a production or veteran spliced to get their standard measurements. Another good tool is a set of small picks and awls. sharp scissors and masking tape.After pushing the wire loop through the core to ready to pull back, hook the other end up to a small ratchet strap to extract the tail. I had an eye in the floor specifically for pulling dbl braid eyes together. Sorry for rambling/bouncing around, new here and figuring out navigation.
09-27-2011 10:52 PM
BubbleheadMd dhays-

Can you post a picture of what you're doing with the coat hanger? I'd like to try that. I agree that pulling is probably easier than pushing sometimes.

My large fid has a hollow end for the pusher, but my smaller fids have a hook on the end, presumably to hook the core to pull it through, but it doesn't hold it well enough and the core always slips out of the hook, so I can't complete the splice.

Edit- Ok, so I've learned that I have New England Ropes "Uni fid II" kit. These fids use the hook to pull the core through, like your coat hanger, instead of a pusher. Okay, fine. How do I properly hook the core to this hook so that it doesn't slip out when I pull it through??
09-27-2011 09:07 PM
Sailinsolo Splicing, particularly double braid, is a thing of beauty once you've mastered a method. I learned on a 24 strand from Samson, Velocity. After years of struggle, I attended a workshop with a production splicer. By the time I left I could splice an eye in under ten minutes without breaking sweat. Some of my take home points were consistent marks and measurements, stay relaxed, if your pulling to hard or struggling in general-something's not right. It should be a smooth process. Customize your splicing kit, piano wire and Mig welding wire work well. A ratchet strap and something solid to pull on, like an eye in concrete or a bug lag through a post. A website, treebuzz.com has an outstanding splicing thread (sorry if I shouldn't post that!). That's my 2 cents, I am inspired now-I'm sure there's some three strand here somewhere.
09-26-2011 12:29 PM
BubbleheadMd After successfully splicing 1/2 inch line as a learning exercise, I bought some 3/8th inch line for a spinnaker halyard. I bought extra in case I screwed up the splice, but 3 tries later, I still couldn't get the core back into the cover. I can't see photos of your coat hanger tool here at work, but I'm going to check it out when I get home.
09-26-2011 12:00 PM
allene222 Samson has a method for splicing used line that works easily. It is not as strong as a normal splice, but is likely twice as strong as a bowline so likely strong enough. They basically just cut off the core and don't bother. The numbers work like this - half the load is carried by both a cover and core. Half the load is carried by just the cover. The cover has half the strength so the overall splice should be about line strength. But the line with a bowline is about half the strength of the line so you are better off even with this less than perfect splice then you were with the bowline. I have a copy of the pdf on L-36.com. I think it is on the Samson site as well.
Eye Splice In Used Line;
09-05-2011 04:44 PM
svHyLyte
Quote:
Originally Posted by dhays View Post
Cutting them off won't be an issue. I was looking for an alternative to the bowline since those tend to get caught on my spreaders when tacking. This knot doesn't seem to as much, at least so far.

Dave
David--

For some reason folks seem to think that having the knots connecting sheets to the clew need to be right at the cringle. In fact, there is no reason for that and all that bulk makes tacking a pain in the neck as it is bound to get hung up on the baby stay (if one has one) and the shrouds. I found that making very large loops--leaving 12-18" between the clew and a bowline largely eliminates the problem. Of course, if you are willing to settle for continuous sheets, a cow-hitch will work, but otherwise try the foregoing. It's worked for me!

/s/ SK
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