|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|01-29-2012 10:46 AM|
|wingNwing||We had some stubborn mold/staining that nothing seemed to work on, including the more expensive caustic sprays and scrubbing. Then just for kicks I tried baking soda + water and the black stuff washed away just like a bad infomercial. Only thing I could figure is that there's more than one strain of mold; some hate acid environments like vinegar & lemon oil; others hate basic environments (baking soda or ammonia). Found this site which seems to confirm my theory: How to Kill & Remove Mold with Bleach, Borax, Vinegar, Ammonia|
|01-13-2012 09:33 PM|
|Capt Len||Any old timer knows the best possible remedy to mold and unnecessary filth is gramma's lye soap.As a child I helped to make this wonderful concoction.To find out more go to Grandma's Lye Soap: Good for Everything in the Home? .Be sure to sing along.It was banned for a while by religious rollers.|
|01-13-2012 08:32 PM|
On the exterior, clorox and/or TSP works great.
On the interior, vinegar works okay, but the best is the old fashion Lysol in the brown bottle. You can find it at older grocery stores or older hardware stores. This is not the "lemon" or other junk sold by Lysol, you want the stuff that smells like iodine. Dilute it properly and then use it to wipe done the surfaces. Also works great on Frig seals. The stuff is great! That's why your grandmother used it! This is the best disinfectant.... a small dab on a fever blister will burn like hell, but you will be cured It is "liquid duct tape"
|01-10-2012 11:28 AM|
Here's an example of modern 'whitewash' (caustic) that can help control mold/mildew: 3M Marine Mildew Block Spray
Mildew/fungals, etc. easily propagate on 'acidic' surfaces; 'caustics' will prevent the spores from 'activating' 3M Marine Mildew Block Spray
The use of vinegar (a weak acid) although will briefly kill fungals because of relatively high 'acid', actually 'enhances' the site for future infection. The use of 'caustics' (whitewashing, etc.) has been the remedy for 'thousands of years'.
Most the plant pathologists and 'mycologists' Ive been associated with over the years would also from time to time recommend the use of TIN (stannic) compounds ... such as found in clear 'athletes foot remedies' to solve 'problem' re-infestations. I sometimes use a drug store product called "Tinacton" (athlete foot remedy) for my 'repetitive problem areas' on the boat.
|11-02-2011 10:23 PM|
|Capt Len||I just cut up another oak pallet and run it thru the wood stove.|
|11-02-2011 08:52 PM|
Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
A good choice might be to clean all surfaces with vinegar that you can reach and than open all floor boards and cabinet doors treat with ozone. That way you get the food for the next generation plus kill any spores that might be floating around. The ozone will deodorize too. We've even used it to get rid of fuel smells. Just some ideas.
|11-02-2011 08:34 PM|
|LookoutNW||Agreed about the scrubbing. I got everywhere I could without removal of the FRG liner. Am hoping that the dehumidifier at 45% will keep it at bay tilll I can get out of Rainopolis. Air flow will help greatly when I get to warmer drier areas. I have modified my boat to keep the airflow maximized but need to be able to open it without the water flowing in...|
|11-02-2011 01:42 PM|
|hellosailor||Yes, ozone rots rubber, plastics, greases, and more. Like bleach it is best used in moderation. And since it kills the crud, but doesn't remove it, the dead crud now becomes food for the next wave of live crud that comes in with fresh air. Still got to reach the inaccessible places to scrub them down.|
|11-02-2011 01:46 AM|
Originally Posted by neverknow View Post
It seems that OZONE generators for a 24 hour period are not too bad for the rubber and FRG but continued use is. Also 24 hours of OZONE saturation will kill all mold, mildew and pretty much all odors.
|10-30-2011 05:42 PM|
|Seaduction||White Vinegar Works. I also quit oiling the teak interior. I think the little mold buggars love the stuff.|
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