|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|10-08-2011 05:39 PM|
|jerryRiggin||Quick caveat-Careful to get epoxy that is not discolored by the sun.|
|10-08-2011 01:59 PM|
|dillybar||Great points guys, as usual the details make the difference between professional and crap|
|10-08-2011 12:38 PM|
|rugosa||Depending on the boat size, teak dimensions and profile, you should consider counter boring to accommodate through-bolts rather than screws. If it is midship there is considerable curve and pressure/load that will continue to work the joint. Through bolting is normally a better long term fix. Also, epoxy would be better than glue|
|10-08-2011 12:30 PM|
|mitiempo||Caleb is right. Dowels are never used as they leave end grain exposed. Bungs are cut from a flat board and can be purchased at West Marine if you don't have the cutter to make them.|
|10-08-2011 12:24 PM|
|CalebD||If you go with countersunk screws then get teak bungs for plugging the screw heads.|
|10-08-2011 12:48 AM|
Teak toe rail repair
Ive got an older Beneteau with a teak toe rail that has begun to split at a cleat.
The cleat that sits on top is still rock solid so I'm assuming the through holes for the cleat bolts weakened the rail in that area or let water in? The rail has a joint about a foot from the cleat and the split is now about 1/4" at the end.
My thoughts were to glue and clamp the rail back together and install a series of countersunk screws then cap with dowels and sand flush.
Having never seen the toe rail off I started wondering if there may be a locating channel cut into the bottom of the rail that I should know about before I start drilling. Or better repair ideas?
Any ideas from people that have done this type of repair before I start in would be appreciated.