|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|10-12-2011 11:10 PM|
Originally Posted by pbrasfield View Post
You may want to get a copy of this: The Hinckley Guide To Yacht Care
|10-12-2011 10:37 PM|
Just caught this thread and have two points to make.
1. If you decide to paint your inside teak, do yourself, any future owners of your boat and the world a favour and ensure it is well varnished first. This will seal the pores of the wood and prevent the paint from being drawn into the wood. Then, down the road, if you or a subsequent owner want the teak back you can strip the finish and have clean teak without having to sand it way down to get past the last bits of absorbed paint.
Offshore sailors do this on exterior teak sometimes for the weatherproofing of the paint and when they are back alongshore they can strip it back and return to varnish.
2. Spray Nine is great stuff but it's a caustic toxin - our dog ate a paper towel that had been used to wipe up S9 and he almost died - lost control of his whole back 1/2 before we got him to the vet. The antidote was to hook him up to an alcohol IV drip which acted as a solvent to flush it out of him. When we saw the vet pouring an airline bottle of Stoly into the drip we asked and he said it was just as good as lab alky but a fraction of the price. Next day the dog was hungover but fine and we had a good story.
Be careful with Spray Nine. I used ZEP purple degreaser from Home Depot for the same job - works great and it's sold as being "green"
|10-11-2011 06:45 PM|
|pbrasfield||just bought a 1961 Hinckley Bermuda 40. 99% of work to be done is cosmetic. Boat was left unattended for 2-3 years so all of the exterior teak needs to be sanded and redone. The interior is really not in bad shape. The floor is dull and scratched and some spots under the windows have some water marks where they have leaked. (just re-caulked all of these) What do you suggest is the best way to strip off old varnish.|
|12-03-2010 08:49 PM|
|VallelyJ||Anybody ever tried a washable vinyl wallpaper? I have a teak cavern in my Alajuela and while I'm tired of the dark, closed-in look, I hate to paint that wood. The wallpaper is reversable if I ever want to go back. I'm seriously considering finding a plain, light-neutral color wallpaper along with lighter cushion covers.|
|12-01-2010 08:53 PM|
|Rangernewell||First if you can remove the piece or pieces you want work with, will make a big difference. there is a product ive been using for years. its called envirotex lit. it is a pour on epoxy that equals 50 coats of varathane.unbelievable results. They are located in Fields landing, CA ..or you can contact them direct at (707) 443-9323|
|12-01-2010 04:57 PM|
In woodworking there's always more than one way to do something, and in re-doing the interior of my first boat I discovered a few shortcuts that might make life a bit easier.
SprayNine will remove the interior finish on my boat, which is a thin coat of varnish. It should remove the oil finish on your wood work as well. It's not as aggressive as TSP and not as nasty to work with, though I would make sure the boat is well ventilated.
If you have watermarks on the wood after using SprayNine to remove the old oil finish try Olympic Deck Cleaner. It's around $7/gallon at Home Depot or Lowes. It contains oxalic acid, but is not super concentrated.
I'm with Rich, I would take my time and block sand where necessary. I wouldn't use a power sander.
To recoat you could go back to an oil finish, or top coat with a wiping varnish such as minwax wiping poly. Either makes it easy to re-touch dings and scratches, and below you're not exposed to the sun and weather.
Best of luck,
|12-01-2010 03:46 PM|
The 'typical' are:
• #1 - Chain plates and rotted chainplate bases and unfortunately there are lots of 'abominable' methods on the internet as to how to repair them.
• #2 - VERY inferior OEM rigging components ... and those components should be replaced IMMEDIATELY.
• bowsprit rot - fairly easy to fix if you are an ardent DIYer.
• Wet teak deck core .... Im in the laborious process of recoring and 're-laminating' the deck (using the old teak decking!). I would have lots of suggestions on how to best 'preserve' what you have so you can delay this 'drudgery'.
• Pin-stop main traveller.
• 'helm problems' because the mast location was set ~24" too far aft - but quite easy to remedy.
What's the hull# and former name on this boat?
There is/was a lot of Tayana37 info (especially concerning rebuild and refit) archived here on sailnet ... suggest you do a 'search' for "tayana" or "tayana 37". Not much new Ty37 info going on here now .. as the 'owners group' moved to 'google groups' and became quite 'narrow' and mostly a 'technically empty' group - IMHO.
|12-01-2010 02:25 PM|
|dorksian||Thanks for your help Richh. She is an elderly treasure and it would be good to give her back her dignity. The portlights tip great too. They're on the 'to do' list. We're currently cleaning out the cockpit coamings of squishy waterlogged wood to install new winches. the chainplates are new, teak decks gone. Are there any other specifically Tayana 37 type problems that we may encounter that you know about?|
|11-30-2010 08:19 PM|
|sailingdog||Be aware, you need to wear a proper respirator, gloves and eye protection when working with Oxalic acid.|
|11-30-2010 08:03 PM|
Interior teak goes 'dark as a cave' because it wasnt originally varnished but oiled. Its the oil that has turned to black due oxidation; but, that oxidation probably has now begun to penetrate into the teak surface. There are only one was to do this:
1. Oil removal. Wash with Trisodium Phosphate to dissolve the 'dead' oil
2. Sand back to raw teak (Caution: the teak used in Tayanas was Burmese/Thai teak and if you get it hot by sanding ... it may turn 'dark brown' in 'zones' where there are 'sap pockets' ... so sand with light pressure and 'keep the sander moving'). Totally forget the 'heat gun'.
3. Bleach the sanded teak with oxalic acid, etc. (Paint store 'wood bleach')
4. Apply 2 uniform coats of acrylic sealer (if you like 'normal-hue varnished' teak, omit this step).
5. Varnish (oil, tung oil based) - typically 5-6 'snot coats', flat sand with 400 grit, then 2 final coats. I like to apply the final coats with a roller and tip-brush (or sometimes spray it).
6. If semi-gloss finish desired then 'hand rub' (bare hand!) with rottenstone + oil; If gloss finish ... then 'rub' with rottenstone + water; if matt/satin finish ... rub with pumice + oil.
There is very little 'veneer' inside a Ty37 and where you find it it will be THICK (3/32 - 1/8"+ thick) so you can sand deeply if you must. Most of the interior of the Ty37 is solid 'stick built' teak; and, as you already know the joinery was done by 'masters'. The sole is ~1/8 - 5/32" teak veneer over ply. The amount of SOLID teak inside a Ty37 nowadays is worth a 'kings ransom' - suggest you make it 'bright', bleach it if you like 'light', and use an oil based varnish .... Not butt-ugly 'cetol', not 'urethane', not 'paint' ... real oil based varnish.
If you can, use 'hard' or 'bar top' varnish - will be difficult to find or find someone who will custom make it for you. 'Spar varnish' is too soft for inside a boat as it easily scratches and 'dings'.
BTW/FWIW- the interior portlights and frames can be 'restored' (back from 'verdigris green') by use of citric acid, sanding/polishing, then spraying with a clear urethane. I also do this on my binnacle and exterior portlights, many urethane coats for exterior.
RichH Ty37 #423
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|